'Tis the Season

Roasted chestnuts at Carnot

Preparations proceed apace for the holidays here in Carca.  We had the children's Christmas service yesterday afternoon; there's a sameness to those celebrations that is both comforting and maddening.  The adolescents read too fast, the younger children stumble, and parents beam with pride.  Silent Night is no better in French than in English, and the verses from Luke are as lovely as they are in King James. 

Nationalities are unimportant--learning to skate is hard in any country

This morning we had a small attendance at church, but the singing was good.  Everyone, including this poor excuse for an accompanist, knew the hymns.  This congregation comes out of a Calvinist heritage, so Christmas decorations are sparse, although I wouldn't call iridescent garland tasteful, exactly.  However, it was hung with love.  There's no shortage of THAT in this little Protestant congregation.

Busy Christmas "hut"

Vendors set up outside Le Dome--those yellow fruits are chantclair apples

After coming back from church, I changed clothes and headed back out to see what was happening at Le Dome and in the streets.  During these last two Sundays before the big holiday, some of the stores have exercised their permission to be open.  The Christmas markets are open, skaters are whizzing around the rink, and the streets and cafes are filled with people. Place Carnot was unpleasantly jammed yesterday with the Saturday market vendors crammed along the edges of the Christmas market and the ice rink, but today was quite pleasant. 

Vin chaud, anyone?

I was especially interested in the offerings at Le Dome.  It is a small fair of all local farms and artisans, mostly concentrating on foie gras, local wines, local honey and jams, and artisanal cheeses.  I love foie gras, but don't trust my culinary skills to do justice to such an expensive ingredient.  I bought some locally made basil and garlic pasta, some jam, and a miniature loaf of cherry spice bread. Every single transaction started with the word, "Desolee."  Sorry.  At one point I told a vendor that was my new name.  These country people do NOT speak English; they speak rapid French with a thick southern accent.  They are all very curious about this great big American woman who asks them, every time, to please slow down.  Fortunately, we are all pretty good-natured and when I let them know that I can understand, but only if they speak slower, they are eager to help me with my language skills and eager to tell me about their farms and their heritage and their products.  We all came away from the transactions today feeling good, I think.

More skaters

Outside, I stopped at the cheese vendor.  I am learning about cheeses, and this man had a cantal--he sliced off a little piece for me to taste.  And then he gave me a piece of a younger version of the same cheese.  I bought a piece of the more mature one--delicious.  And when he was slicing, I told him not to make it too big, because I was alone.  Oh well, now--so is his partner.  So, I came away with a lovely piece of aged cantal and had I been of a mind, I could have had a date with a very short French cheesemaker who was wearing a sombrero.  I could have done worse.

I meandered through the Porte de Jacobins and over to Place Carnot.  The roasted chestnut machine was wafting smoke, the skating rink was busy, the Christmas market was doing a brisk vin chaud  (hot wine) trade, and the outdoor cafes that ring the square were abuzz with people having a coffee and visiting with friends. The weather has cooperated by not being too cold, even though today it was gray and overcast.  It all had a good feel to it--no short tempers or pushing or shoving or wanting to butt up in line.  On the P.A. system, James Taylor was singing In the Bleak Midwinter--most of the Christmas music here has been in English--and it was all very mellow; I haven't really felt any frantic hustle. 

Characters at Gambetta

Three friends?

On the way home, I ran into some costumed characters, a juggler, and Santa's little farm.  I can't get enough of those funny chickens.  Everyone was out enjoying the Magie de Noel (Magic of Christmas).  I will try my hand at Christmas cookies this afternoon and tonight there is an outdoor production of The Little Match Girl that I would like to see.

Sweet little donkey

My favorite chickens

The festivities don't stop once Christmas is here, but are planned through the end of the month.  I have promised to provide music for both the Christmas Eve and Christmas Day service.  After all these years as a church musician, I just can't seem to get away from it.  But it provides a sense of familiarity and a bit of structure.  But there are plenty of activities throughout the entire season--there's a calligraphy class I will attend and the rides and concessions will continue.  The season does not start as early here as it does in the US, but we make the most of it.

 

He gobbled until he was blue in the face

George Washington oiseau