Cafe Saillan and Single Women

John and Catherine

My neighbors John and Catherine have given me an introduction into Cafe Saillan, a local hangout a block away from Place Carnot.  Cafe Saillan is a long-running Carcassonne establishment, mentioned in one of Kate Mosse's novels set here in the city.  It is rumored to have been the meeting ground for the local resistance movement during World War II.  I have passed this particular spot when I have gone to Mexicot to buy chicken livers.  (Michel does not sell them, so I am not being unfaithful.) It's full of color and characters and I've always felt a little triste that I was unsure of the welcome I would be given there.  It is obviously a favorite spot for local movers and shakers, local politicians and committee heads, and I have never once seen a woman in there by herself.  

John, being the gregarious and very social bee that he is, has made friends with many of the regular clientele.  Catherine's French Canadian background gives her the conversational skills needed for John to actually talk to the guys there.  They both rave about this place

Some people find it hard to grasp that the rules for travel, or simply living, whether here in France or the States (or probably any other country) are different for women alone.  I know women back in the States who won't even go to the movies or out to a restaurant by themselves. It's never ever occurred to me not to do either just because I didn't have someone with me.  Obviously I am used to traveling alone and with one or two exceptions, I have never, ever had a problem.  I think in the US, the raised eyebrow and disdainful, "One?" by a maitre'd has gone the way of buggy whips, and even here in France, every restaurant I have entered has been welcoming.  

He's from the UK; she's Canadian

Having said that, there are still some places I probably wouldn't venture in alone. I am not afraid, but an American woman by herself runs a great risk of having polite conversation misinterpreted.  It has happened to me a couple of times and I have learned to be a little more guarded when talking to male strangers.  Cafe Saillan has always struck me as full of interesting characters, which appeals to me, but a little bit of a male bastion, which does not.  

So, when John and Catherine offered to introduce me to the owner and the main waiter and several of the regulars, I jumped at the chance.  They are, in effect, passing the torch to me.  We strolled up there yesterday afternoon right around lunch.  The place was packed; there wasn't an empty seat or a barrel in sight.  John went inside to get us a glass of wine each and Catherine and I chatted and people and dog watched while we waited.  

I might mention that the market, for the first time ever, was not particularly pleasant.  Because of the Christmas market huts and the ice rink, the regular vendors are jammed into the remaining space, making getting through the "aisles" nearly impossible.  I think Saillan was especially crowded because shoppers were sorely in need ot rest and sustenance after fighting the market hordes.  Next week I will go an hour earlier, and maybe avoid the worst of the sardine-in-a-can feeling.  

John soon arrived with our drinks and Fon-fon; the guy who is the president of the local chapter of the Prosper Montagne Club Gastronomique.  We chatted for a bit and then he left.  Another regular came up and talked with John and Catherine.  I can't remember his name, but he used to work in the circus and made his living as a performer and then as a trainer.  Catherine has some connection to Cirque du Soleil, which is Canadian, so they have really hit it off.  When he noticed that Catherine and I were both drinking rose instead of white or red,, he gave us a mini lesson about the rose wine of Provence being better than that of our region.  I do know that the best roses are almost gray, which impressed him.  I did not spoil my good first impression by telling him that I don't like the roses of Provence, and much prefer the ones from here in the Aude.) John and Catherine have taken off for a few days in Provence, so they now have a mission to find wine and a dish made with lambs' feet.  (As recommended by another guy in the restaurant where we had dinner last night)

Snagged a barrel

So, I have been properly presented to society here. (Does that make me a debuante?)  It is now up to me to keep the English speaking presence in the cafe.  I hope I am equal to the task.