The Roman Games---3 Days in Nimes--Day 1

First glimpse of the arena

I decided that this was the year to attend the Great Roman Games in Nimes.  I had read about them and some interesting articles and photos had appeared in the Sunday papers.  These are the largest and most authentic Roman games held in an authentic Roman arena.  What was I waiting for? 

ere come the Romans--watch out!  They will build someting

I dithered a little too long, and ended up having to book a hotel room that was not the most conveniently located, but I was able to figure out how to get to and from the arena via the tram. So, it wasn't too bad.  Next year I will get a room in the town center, so I can have a rest when I get a little tired in the afternoon. But I managed!

One of the galleys

Under sail

I arrived on Friday early in the afternoon.  It's an easy and pleasant train ride from Carcassonne, and doesn't even require a train change.  I was glad about that, because unlike the way I normally travel, I had a suitcase to haul around; I was going on to Marseille to collect my friend Lorraine, who was training over from Italy where she'd been touring with friends and family.  A lone backpack would not do.  Anyone who had done much rail travel, at least here in the south of France knows there are steps to contend with and not a lot of elevators or escalators to be found.  Schlepping bags up and down the stairs is not my favorite thing in the world to do.  Also, I don't like dragging around a suitcase, even though it is a small one, while I am scoping out the city--trying to get my bearings.  Oh how I miss train and bus station lockers.

Copy of the statue in Rome

Detail of the fountain in the plaza

Once off the train, I followed the signs to "Centre-ville"  the town center.  Usually this is where you will find the Office of Tourism...always my first stop in a new town.  I walked slightly uphill for a couple of blocks on a wide esplanade--lots of benches and plenty of shade.  There is a water feature--a sort of open air sluice-way.  It burbled and gurgled rather pleasantly and benches are strategically placed to sit and zen out listening to the sound and watching the world pass by.  I suspect it gets very crowded in the summer height of tourist season, but on this visit, there were plenty of empty benches and plenty of peace and quiet.

Costume rentals

Leather goods--shoes to match your toga

Artisan pottery

At the top of the slight hill, I could see several rows of pointed-crown tents, sculptures and wow, two red Roman galleys.  I was certainly in the right place.  Then I rounded a slight bend and got my first glimpse of the arena....I think "Holeeee Crap"  were my exact words.  Even though it's small compared with the gargantuan stadiums of the 21st century, I still was unprepared for a structure of that size to be sitting right in the middle of town!  I figured it would be off the beaten path somewhat, but oh was I ever wrong!  

The first image that flashed into my mind was of the builders....the men who placed those stones and mortar...who were they?  What would they think if they could see that their handiwork is still standing 2000 years later?  And it's not in ruins, but still being used!  I think the Romans' strength was not their army--but their builders.  

I made my way over to the Office of Tourism where I was not only given maps and brochures, but instructions as to how to use public transportation to get to my hotel.  My hat is off to the men and women who work in these centers--they field so many questions on a wide variety of subjects--where are bathrooms?..how to get a taxi?..what are the museum hours?...where's a good place to get a hamburger?  (Don't you think it interesting that so many tourists have to have something familiar to eat?)  Anyhow, the woman I spoke with was able to answer all my questions, asked in French, by the way, about how to get around.

I then made my way to a darling little brasserie for a very late lunch.  Some of the restaurants in the center of a tourist town, in season, will bend the rules about lunch service a little...and serve after the normal end-of-service 2:00.  I had one of the specials for the Games--the Spartacus--3 courses for 14.50.  A good deal.  I got out my travel journal -  a lovely one bound in leather--to record the details.  Unfortunately, the travel journal has become lost--I think it fell out of the suitcase pocket in the taxi that I took to get to the hotel.

I finished lunch, meandered through some of the tent exhibits and then decided that I had had enough of the suitcase and returned to the train station, where I secured a taxi to take me to the hotel.  It could be walked, but I was tired.  I checked in, and then sat down to do some writing.  Later I went out to the Carrefour across the street to get some fruit and cheese for dinner.  After so big a lunch, I was not in the mood for something heavy.  I bought some red globe grapes that were the size of gold balls!  

I had dinner, sat in front of the open window and wrote, working on a current project.  I had a great hot shower and an early night, during which I was awakened by the wind, which had begun to blow in earnest.  When I looked at the weather forecast, I realized we were in for quite a gusty weekend.  

Out of the apartment early the next morning.  I found a great bakery across the street to get some breakfast--coffee and a fresh croissant--oh heaven! They also had these giant pink meringues, which I have never seen before.  White ones, yes, but never pink.

Beautiful pink meringues

I then walked through the howling wind--it never stopped the entire time I was in Nimes,; so much for trying to fix my hair.  😖😖  I made it  up to the bus stop to board the tram which would take me to the arena.  But before doing so, I went over to talk to a group of Gilets Jaunes, the group that has been protesting every weekend for the past 6 months.  I wanted to just talk to them and find out what their points are and what their feelings are about the violence that's been done in their name.  I attracted quite a crowd of people who wanted to explain themselves to me.  It was all very cordial and when I told them "Je suis avec vous," (I am with you) they invited me to come and join them for the day. And to vote!!! They, like most people here, are intrigued that an American would take the time to talk to them and learn their concerns and perspectives. It was a very pleasant way to start the day, for sure.

Hopped the tram and got to see some more of the city while en route to the arena.  It's an interesting city, and I could live there, if it weren't so hot.  Nimes is from time to time the hot spot of France in the summer.  Hopped off the tram at the arena and made my way over to the museum.