La Sanch

4 "masters" await at the Cathedral doors.

Having been a church musician for most of my life, I have celebrated, if that word could be used, my share of Good Fridays--more than 50 of them.  Some have been simple stripping of the altar, some have involved the Episcopal Church in all its high color and majesty and the Stations of the  Cross.  But I have seen nothing to compare with the procession of La Sanch (pronounced sort of like la sank) this past Good Friday in Perpignan.

Catalan flags haging in the Cathedral square

Mary's "side aisle" in full decor

Before the procession began I spent some time in the Cathedral.  It's relatively small to warrant so grand a title.  It was bedecked with Catalan flags on both the outside and the inside.  Row upon row of lit candles flickered--after all, it was Good Friday.  I found it soothing and comforting inside, even with all the gilt and gold leaf. There were surprisingly few tourists.  

Sweet late morning light

Row upon row

The Master rings the bell to set the cadence for the drummers

The black hooded penitents follow

Beginning at 3 in the afternoon, a procession winds its way through the streets of Perpignan from Saint Jacques Church to the Cathedral of the city.  Perpignan is a city on the south coast of France, very near the Spanish-French border.  It is distinctly Catalan in its nature, and sometimes is known as little Seville.  While I was there for la Sanch, I saw Catalan flags everywhere; only in front of official French administrative buildings did I see the French tri-color.  .  The food, the language, the traditions of Perpignan are more Catalan than French, and Perpignan feels very much like Barcelona. 

The next generation participates

More masked penitents

I positioned myself at the Cathedral end of the procession, at the square leading to the front door.  While the procession was winding its way through the streets, four red-hooded and masked "Masters" stood at the front door of the cathedral awaiting the arrival of the procession of the penitents.  While we waited, here was music of all sorts from liturgical chants to Catalan hymns, as well asw prayers, and little history lessons telling about the history of the procession being broadcast over the loudspeakers placed on poles around the plaza. 

One of the statues being carried

One of the many statues of the Virgin

Soon the sound of a lone bell ringer reached our ears and the crowd grew silent.  A lone red-hatted, red-masked figure dressed in long red robe wearing red gloves entered the plaza ringing out a cadence on his bell.  He was followed by figures wearing the same "costume" only theirs were black.  Both hat and mask combinations are shaped like cones, normally associated with a "Dunce Cap."  I think this is some uniquely Spanish shape, as I have seen photos of the same sort of hat/mask combination, but in sky blue,  Americans think immediately of the KKK, which is unfortunate for these Catalans, as they have absolutely nothing in common.

The tradition crosses generational lines

Young girls wear white lace head scarves

There were children in the procession: altar boys carrying the cross, and the children even had their own statue to carry.  Other young girls marched by dressed in black but wearing white lace head scarves.  This inclusion of children might account for the fact that this procession has been going on for more than 600 years---the tradition is passed down from generation to generation. 

Statue of Jesus and the Romans

Black and red robes

There were many chapters of this penitential order and each carried a statue of a church they represented.  Some of them were quite heavy, requiring 6- 8 people to carry on their shoulders.  Women had their statues, too.  |There were representation of Christ's passion and many different statues of  Mary: as a virgin,, as a grieving mother, as queen. 

Red rope belts and chains

Carrying the statue of the crucified Christ

 There were women dressed in black, with black head coverings.  Some of the marchers were barefoot.  |Some marched with their arms crossed over their chests.  Nobody spoke.  It must have been stifling under all those robes and under that coned mask. One thing is certain, and the penitents themselves express it: "Under the mask we are all equal.":

A group of Masters

Many marched barefooted

I estimate that there were perhaps 30 statues being carried.  They all assembled in the plaza to receive the blessing from the Bishop who awaited them in the doorway of the Cathedral.  The entire procession could not all fit into the plaza and the line stretched for at least 4 blocks outside of the plaza.  

This statue needed 8 bearers

It was solemn--this is no re-enactment.  This is a living tradition that happens every year as it has for centuries.  It now draws a crowd of spectators, but that is not its purpose.  It's about public repentance and atonement.  It's about reminding us to accompany one another through grief.  I found it deeply moving, if a bit puzzling.  It did give me "chair de poule"--flesh of the chicken--goosebumps.  I am glad to have witnessed it.