mardi 18 avril 2017

Random Thoughts About Spring

If I were a bee, I would certainly be busy now, filling up on on all the pollen that surely must be flying through the air with our springtime wind.  The scent of wisteria last week and lilac this week calls to me as I sit by my opened office window.  I have to close the shutters in the afternoon; the glare from the sun is too bright.  I can see neither the computer screen nor the lines on the paper as I am writing out a translation of the History of Carcassonne.  (Have slogged up through the Bronze and Iron Ages and the Romans are on the scene now)

The downside is that I am suffering today, from allergies.  My woes are nothing compared to those who really do have allergies--I have simply sneezed nearly non-stop since getting out of bed today.  But the glory of all the blooms, the lilacs, the fields of rapeseed, the irises, the poppies--it's more than worth a few tissues.  I can't remember when I have enjoyed a spring so much, even with all the sneezing.

Here they come, courtesy of Ryanair
It brings with it---tourists, many from Great Britain.  Oh dear!  I have to put on my game face and try to be as hospitable as possible to the ones I encounter in the street  This past weekend, Easter weekend was also the close of school vacations, so the streets were particularly busy.  And Carcassonne and its surrounding hamlets took full advantage---jousting and fighting a la medieval knight up in la Cite all weekend, a book and art fair in Montolieu.  It's just not possible to do it all.




Tender green new growth
Pesto soon?
And spring also brings the urge to clean, to freshen and to put my house in order.  I spent the morning taking apart the inside of the fridge, tossing anything suspect, washing and "bleaching" the shelves.  It looks as if it were just newly delivered.  Because of my insistence on open windows, I have to deal with more dust than those who live in hermetically sealed homes, but it's worth it.  So what if I have to wash every dish I have sitting on the etagere once a week?   



Growing like a week
I didn't make it to the market this morning, but I didn't really need anything.  I did get a new pot and a new hanger for my basil plant and look forward to homemade pesto very soon. It's in bright sunshine now, but I hope it can withstand the wind.   My other plants are growing and can use some re-potting themselves.  I will go on the hunt for something special in which to place them.  
New vase sans lilacs

Makes it easier to see the details

So, yes, I am living my dream.  And that life encompasses four seasons, exciting things like getting to go out on the Mediterranean, finding a lovely vase, and yes, cleaning the refrigerator.  It is all very, very good.

samedi 15 avril 2017

Self Indulgence at the Saturday Market

Vase and lilacs to fill my heart
I kept waiting for the bells of St. Vincent to tell me the time when I woke up this morning.  But they are silent today, no doubt as a statement of what the Christian world would be like had the story stopped with Good Friday.  I miss their quarter-hourly tolling. 

Nonetheless, it's market day and I was on a mission.  I wanted to find a fresh basil plant and some cut lilacs to have in the house for Easter.  Other than that, I had nothing much on the list, other than to enjoy the neighborhood.  It seems like I get to dawdle at the Saturday market less and less frequently.  Does that mean I am really becoming a local?
Beautiful blooms, real and painted


After a few chores in the kitchen, I went to the market by way of the library, to return books.  That route, of course took me by the clothing store I like and the antique store that I love.  I was sort of in the market for a wide-neck vase, something a little bit larger than the ones I have, a vase to fit the scale of my dining room table.  But it was not an emergency by any means.  

I bought a new spring/summer top at the clothing store, which I do need.  I have been wearing the same t-shirts for at least 10 years now and it's high time to spruce up my wardrobe.  I am sure it will be fun and comfortable to wear.

 
But the find of the day was an antique porcelain vase, in PERFECT condition,.  It's tall enough to hold some long stems, opaque, so that if I choose to put in some high quality silk flowers, the stems won't show and decorated with irises, one of my favorite flowers.  It's a shade of lavender, which goes with my walls and most importantly, it made my heart go "thunk,"  Sad, isn't it, that I paid more for that single vase than I did for all of the dining room chairs combined!
Painted iris

 
And then at the market, I scored a basil plant for only 3 Euros, and an armful, and I mean an armful, of lilacs for only 5 Euros.  They are perfuming my living room right now, with the scent of childhood memories.  Lilacs at Easter, right?  Yes, I know they won't last, but the vase will.  Besides, the point is to live in and enjoy the moment, the right now.  And they are in full perfume right NOW. 

Basil plant will get its own window


As for food, well......I have plenty here already.  I see a coconut cake in the works this afternoon and a lovely Easter meal that will include fresh asparagus, fresh strawberries.  Not a day goes by that I don't realize and give thanks for being one lucky, lucky,, girl, who occasionally is a bit self-indulgent.. 

Easter memories

jeudi 13 avril 2017

Tectosages and the Mediterranean

Leaving
Toward the entrance of Port Vendres harbor

I have been translating, really carefully translating, a history of Carcassonne.  It has not been the speediest of processes,  but I am trying to be faithful and correct.  I have managed to work my way through pre-history and am now entering the period of Roman occupation and development of Carcaso... 
If only there were photos of Tectosages!!
Historical photos under glass on the light poles



I am learning so much in this process.  Obviously I am expanding my French skills, both in vocabulary and grammar.  The French still use complex sentences and I am appalled at how simplistic my reading material must have become, as I am having a bit of a slog with sentences with multiple clauses before the verb even appears.  Shame on me!  But I am getting back into the swing of things.  So, I am learning new vocabulary, much of which deals with archaeological terminology.  
Stone memorial to French WWII fliers

Leaving the harbor

Guiding light--modern days
More than that, I am learning more about history than I ever knew.  I stop and wonder how there can be so many gaps in my education and my knowledge base.  I came across the tribe of Volques Tectosages---a Celtic tribe that inhabited the Carcassonne region prior to the Romans coming in and putting things to right!!  Who ever heard of them?  Why haven't I ever heard of them.  I used to think tha, unlike science and modern history, ancient history and grammar textbooks did not need to be rewritten periodically.  Now I know how wrong I have been.  New discoveries are constantly revamping thinking about these ancient people.
Port of Call--Collioure  except for the modern sailboat, what era could it be?

Collioure by boat

I have spent hours wondering what these people looked like, how they dressed, what a day in a woman's life looked like, how they worked, what their homes were like.  Even though there is so much that I don't know (and what I don't know grows exponentially with every page of translation) I feel a connection to these ancients.  

Collioure chapel from the sea

Argeles new port is very different--more treess
I felt that same connection yesterday while I was out on the "open water" of the Mediterranean.  I thought of all the peoples who traveled these watery trade routes: Phoenicians, Etruscans, Romans and Greeks.  I was on the same waters as they traversed.  What did they look like?  What were their lives like?  Does the landscape look the same (minus the addition of modern buildings and power lines?)  Did they eat the same little fried fish that I tried at lunch?  Did they have aioli with their calamari as well?  
Spain is just there

I cannot imagine ever being bored, not while living here.  That is a blessing. There is so much to learn, so many gaps to fill.  And I am relishing every moment of it.  
Obelish in Port Vendres

Held up by sea turtles?

lundi 3 avril 2017

Printemps

Although spring started officially almost two weeks ago, we've enjoyed mostly the "lion" version of it:  blustery winds, grey threatening skies sailing by, chilly evenings, occasional showers.  Today, however, I believe le printemps has its foot squarely in the door.

I took advantage of it, for a change.  I am nearly put back together from my guess' visit; I finished the last load of linens today.  While I was washing, I took advantage of the day to do some "spring cleaning"--changed the pillow protectors, removed and laundered the housse de couette (duvet cover).  It and the duvet, which I aired over my office window railing are now tucked away for the season.  I don't think I will be needing such a warm cover for sleeping for a while. 

My new favorite tree

I also have been slaving away at my floors and my spirits sagged a little today when I realized that if I am going to insist on keeping the windows open, I have to face the fact that the floors will need nearly daily vacuuming and at least a weekly washing.  Otherwise they are covered in black grime, blowing in, probably from the Basque country!  It's just how things are.  And it didn't help when on the freshly washed kitchen floor, I managed to drop a piece of Moroccan melon!  Not even two hours after the floor had dried!  Grrrr. 
The definition of "tree"
This is impressive, even if the photo is not

When I first moved here, my original apartment was small enough that keeping it neat and tidy didn't take nearly as much effort as does this bigger one.  But it is nearly double the floor space, so I guess that's to be expected.  If only I could cultivate the habit one of my friend's friend has--she mops her kitchen floor every evening right before going to bed.  But, I am getting into a routine and accomplishing projects, and I think my "nest" is taking less of my time and energy.  Spring cleaning included!
Showing green "mist"

Silvery tops of the olive trees at le Dome


So, I actually found time today to take my camera for a walk.  The trees, especially the platane trees along the main boulevards, are starting to leaf out.  But the leaves are small and underdeveloped at this point, so the trees look like they are wearing a green mist.  Just a hint of green about the small, graceful branches.

At Place Gambetta


I discovered a tree on the grounds of the Prefecture that should appear in dictionaries world wide as the definition of  tree.  It really is spectacular and my mission in the next few days will be to go to the city, contact the head of the grounds/parks and make an appointment so he/she can teach me what these trees are....I saw three more over by the Dome, but they are not nearly so mature and impressive.  

Riot of colors
I moseyed by the Dome, peering into the windows of my favorite antique shop.  Since it is Monday, he's closed, but he was in the shop, changing out his window.  What an artist.  I then wandered a little through Les Capucins ending up by the fountain at the Portail des Jacobins.  The wind was spraying the water on anyone, human or avian, who got too near.  The birds liked it better than the humans.
Wind blows the fountain spray


Severely pruned platane trees by the Caserne...will they survive?
Spring colors were everywhere--primroses and poppies shone in the sun.  I have seen some wisteria blooming and I need to take the train to Limoux for the track-side irises.  I love having four seasons and I am reveling in this printemps.  Home now, with a glass of rose and some aperos, I am truly blessed this day. 
Poppies blow in the wind

dimanche 2 avril 2017

Driving Force

I have spent a great deal of time today thinking about what drives me to do things.  What ever possessed me to enter a cake contest in France, for heaven's sake? 

Books and CD's organized


What is the source of the feeling that I have never accomplished enough--even on the most basic level?  As in getting my living space arranged just as I'd like it?  I can't help but wonder if other people walk through their days constantly feeling inadequate?  Yes, I got the kitchen tidied, and the house vacuumed, but then I did something silly, like----prepare and eat lunch and it's all messy again.  
Christmas cactus blooming again

Maybe it's the changeable weather here in Carcassonne today.  I would like to be outside, but the weather is as unpredictable as I have ever seen--at the moment, the sun is trying to break through, but it did that earlier, only to have rain beat against the window half an hour later.  It has made me a little restless.  I should wash the floors, especially in the kitchen, as I cannot seem to keep from dropping whatever foodstuff I am working with, right at the edge of the counters. When did I become so sloppy a cook?
Some fantastical creature

Bud ready to open


And when the sun does come out, I think--gosh Charlotte, what are you trying to prove?   You write, you sing, you are learning the piano and learning the hammer dulcimer. You write and maintain a blog, with photographs.  You've learned a new (to you) Irish song to present at the 98.  You take photographs and are learning to see in entirely new ways.  You just entered a cake competition in a foreign (to you) country.  You are learning a new language. You organized your CD's and your bookshelf. Have a little patience with yourself and take time today to read a book.  The laundry will be there in the morning, as will the floors.  

Bountiful new growth
I think my Christmas cactus is a good example of what is happening to me----it's thriving in its new surroundings, with plenty of light and water.  It's blossoming almost continually, and has put on new growth.  And I feel like that's happening here, to me, too!  Not always easy, but surely exciting.


samedi 1 avril 2017

Amateur Chocolate Cake Contestt

Seven lonely entries....mine is all the way at the top


This weekend in Carcassonne featured the 3rd Annual Chocolate Festival at Halle Prosper Montagne here in the Bastide.  One of the activities this year was a chocolate cake contest open to amateur bakers.  Since I had made a Guinness chocolate cake for St. Patrick's Day and it was well received, I thought I would make it and enter. Talk about brass! 

Nougat

You have to realize just how audacious an act this was!!!!  An American entering a French patisserie contest?!!  American style cakes are so NOT to the French palate; they like their cake dense, except when it comes to genoise, which they like on the dry side so it can fulfill its purpose of soaking up the surrounding liquids--syrup, cream, puddings.   The large looser crumb of an American style cake is foreign to the French palate.  And again, an American having the audacity to enter a French baking contest---sacre bleu!  

Nougats are nearly the size of tires

The bottom line is that I did not win.  There were only 7 entries, which stunned me.  There is a reason why there are not more amateur bakers in France--just look at all the patisseries in the neighborhood.  French leave baking to the professionals, I guess.  I did have a wonderful opportunity to talk with the head judge, a Meilleur Ouvrier de France patissier--and he gave me the run down on my cake, which apparently fit only for French garbage cans!!!!

Middle Eastern sweets--oh yeah!

He does not care for Guinness and certainly does not like it in cakes.  He cares neither for the appearance (the blackness of the Guinness leads the person looking at the cake to think it's burnt), the texture (not dense enough) nor the taste (refer back to the not liking Guinness part).  He gave me a lesson about what I needed to do if I am going to insist on using this recipe...as if I intend to go into business or turn professional.  That's how seriously the French take their chocolate cake.
Easter animals all in a row


I entered on a whim, and am glad that I did.  It is another step in integrating into the life here.  I had wonderful conversations with the two ladies on either side of me while we were watching the judges.  I did receive a lovely bag of toiletries for my participation.  As the first prize was a huge basket of chocolate, I am happier with the prize I got.  Because chocolate is not my favorite flavor.  Will I do it again?  Probably.  After all, life is too short not to be audacious.  


The judge who spent 20 minutes with me teaching me about French cakes



P.S.  I just had a slice of this cake and it is DELICIOUS.  And I am not a great fan of chocolate. It is much better than the one I made for St/ Patrick's Day.....Guess I have no palate.   

The winning entry--dense slab of chocolate