Field Trip North

Fields of red poppies outside of the Carcassonne city limits

Yesterday Jason took my upstairs neighbor, Mary, and me on a little drive to Albi, a city north-northwest of Carcassonne.  It was a glorious day, sunny, borderline hot in the direct sun, not too humid, not too windy.  There was not too much traffic, and certainly not too many tourists.

The quickest way to Albi is to take the toll road to Toulouse and then head northeast.  That was not for us.  Our route took us over the Montagnes Noirs--the Black Mountains and into the region known as the Tarn.  I loved seeing the changes in the countryside.  Before reaching the mountains, we went through the Cabardez--scrubby and dry.  The soil is light in color; this is due to all the limestone, I think.  The bushes have a grey tint to them and vineyards here produce some of the best wine of the Aude.  

Climbing up into the Black Mountains

Could the yellow be broom?

The climb up into the mountains is so subtle I hardly realized it was happening until I found myself surrounded by deep woods with vast valley vistas when there were breaks in the roadside vegetation.  I saw what I think was broom covering some of the hillsides. Soon enough the broad valley vistas gave way to steep gorges, heavily wooded and with a river at the bottom too far down to discern.  Descending the Black Mountains was steep, winding and reminded me of the drive through the canyon to Medford--but with different trees. 

A side road up in the Black Mountains

Once on the other side of the mountains, we passed through Mazamet, a once important banking and tannery and textile center.  Even though it is of some size, it has a very isolated feel to it.  An hour away by car from Carcassonne, it takes three on the train, because you have to go to Toulouse first.  Officially now in the Tarn, I noticed some changes in the countryside on this "other" side of the Black Mountains.  

Mazamet

The soil was redder; obviously it contains more clay.  Thus, the crops were different.  Still very agricultural, this part of France doesn't have so many vineyards.  Instead of little fields hemmed in by hedgerows, there were bigger fields, many with newly cut hay.  I recognized alfalfa and saw young corn plants testing the sun and the air as they began their climb.  I also spotted some Holstein cows; a rarity here.  This countryside felt more and more like Frederick County, where I grew up.

The "other" side of the mountains--steep and heavily wooded

We passed through Castres, another city of some size and then reached our destination: Albi.  That's for another post.

Are there faces in the caves?