Trebes

The "port" of Trebes

Today felt like summer, and I can more easily see in my mind's eye what it is going to feel, smell and sound like.  The heat was welcome after the wintry day earlier this week, but the 20 degrees cooler inside my building was also welcome after having spent a great deal of the morning and early afternoon outside.

The lock keeper's "office"

I finally made my way to Trebes, a little town east of Carcassonne.  It's a pretty good deal, since it's in the Carcassonne bus system, and I can get there and back for a Euro each way.  (I do have to look into the business of getting a senior pass--then I can ride for free!)  It takes about 20 minutes to get there and involves some highway travel, which felt a little odd.  I haven't been on highways for a long stretch of time now. 

One of the little public spaces that dot the town

Forlorn shutters

Colorful flowerpots cling to the doorframe

Trebes claim to fame is its location on the Canal and the Aude.  I found it to be hillier than I had expected..  Friends who''d been there had told me that it "wasn't much," and in some ways, I have to agree with them.  It has a feel to it of being by-passed:  by time, by prosperity, by the great gobs of tourists that are beginning to clog the streets in Carcassonne.  There is a little waterfront, or port as they refer to it, with a string of cafes and the tourist information center along the water, and there is a double lock on the Canal as one heads toward Narbonne.  There is also a lovely restaurant on the premises of the locks; apparently there once was a windmill located there, but I couldn't find any traces of it.

Interesting roofline decor

I was struck by how run-down many of the buildings were.  I got the impression that there just wasn't enough tourist business to lure the money away from the Canal--the boat rentals and the outdoor cafes were busy.  It felt like all the money, all the commerce in Trebes was found on the Canal.  LeBoat operates a rental outlet in Trebes---Brits with money come through on their boats en route to somewhere else.  I could certainly see how locals might come to resent all this perceived money motoring by, leaving them on the outside looking in.  Maybe Trebes just doesn't have any attractions to develop and entice tourists to stay and stimulate the economy.  I have to confess that I am harboring a growing dislike of them:  they motor by with their music blaring, disturbing the peace with their engines and shouted directions to stay off the walls of the locks.  The boats are oversized and a little ostentatious, gleaming white under the May sun.  I don't have the same reaction to the wooden peniches that tie up along the banks--they are more unassuming and more authentic.  I will have to work on my attitude, I suppose.  I hope my belief that these people contribute to the local economy is backed up with data, otherwise I would be hard-pressed to find any redeeming qualities in these boats and those who noisily operate them. 

Decorated wine barrels

L

Love the paint decoration

And yet, I found plenty to catch my eye and amuse myself for the larger part of the day.  I went exploring through the narrow streets, and spent some time in the tourist information center.  They are hosting an exhibit of decorated wine barrels and wine presentation boxes, some of which were for sale.  There was also a model of the town; maybe to scale, I can't be sure.  However, the business that produces olive oil and local olive products was closed, as was the church. I discovered an amazingly accurate sundial on the side of a building, and some cryptic letters and numbers carved over the doorway of another house. I found a street near the church so narrow that I could almost touch the buildings on both sides if I stood with my arms outstretched.  I nearly was struck on the bridge over the Aude by a car traveling too fast, but no harm was done.  I watched the lock keeper at his work and had a brief smile when I thought of putting lock keeper as one's profession on a resume in the United States.  I found a Portugese grocery store that I didn't have time to visit; I  will save that for next time.. 

What does this mean?

Model of the town in the Tourist Info center

Accurate, too!

The Aude, looking downstream

The Aude--looking upstream toward Carcassonne

I walked along the canal, which I love to do.  I splurged on lunch at the Moulin--the restaurant at the lock where the windmill was located.  The chef sent everyone a tasting--cold cod with a white garlic sauce.  I did try it, loved the sauce, but hot or cold, cod is not for me!  I had a glass of rose and a hot lunch of roasted guinea fowl, peas with arugula and onions, and scalloped potatoes.  I cleaned my plate.  I am really enjoying the guinea fowl--I remember neighbors raising them when I was growing up, but I wonder if anyone still does that.  Thee couple at the table next to mine arrived with their black and white dog on a leash.  He was sweet and well behaved and gave me a great smile!

Dining outside at Le Moulin

Vineyard and orchards border the Canal at this spot

Lovely, graceful gate

The surrounding countryside still manages to take my breath away.  All is green and in flower from recent rains.  I am enjoying springtime in the Aude.  I will definitely go back to Trebes and I still have the goal of walking back to Carcassonne along the canal.  It's not so far, not really. But I will go on a weekday, Trebes is not worth giving up market day again!

Sweet lunch companion

Lovely spot, good food, excellent company