Along the Canal

Two boats in the lock--note the water level

The Canal du Midi was the reason I chose Carcassonne as my place to spend my sabbatical year in 2013.  I was clueless, really, about all the other features of the city and the region (and EVERY time I see the snow caps of the Pyrenees, I am still awestruck), but I love canals.  The rest, as the old saying goes, is history.

Note the turbulence from the incoming water

Lower lock gate--a little water trickles through the "panels"

I never tire of the Canal, when it's full of would-be Admiral Nelsons, or when it's been drained for cleaning.  It's open from March until November and the boating season is really getting into full gear right about now.  I wonder how many times during the day the lock gates open and close.  I can tell you one thing is certain--they don't operate during lunch! Nor at night.  This is the south of France, after all.

The boats are slowly rising

The guy in the green shirt s the lock master, I think

I took a long walk along the path this past Tuesday, which was a national holiday here--V.E. Day.  I remember celebrating, or at least pausing to note this day when I was a little girl, but I think it has been forgotten for some decades now in the States.  While the rest of the city was sleepily quiet, the traffic on the Canal was still lively.  It seemed like most people were working their way toward Toulouse.  

Lock is almost full

Incoming water has stopped and gate is about to open

I stopped for a photo session at the lock by the train station.  I thought I would post some for people who've never seen a canal lock in action get a better idea of how they work and how the boats are "lifted" when the terrain climbs.  Between the Mediterranean and Toulouse, 240 kilometers  (about 144 miles, the length of the canal, not as the crow flies) there are 63 locks. That's a lot of lifting!

Making ready to leave the side of the lock

Gate slowly creaks open

The boat enters the lock, which is oval, a shape that better withstands the water pressure when it fills. The gate ahead and the gate behind are closed.  Windows or panels in the upper gate are opened and water pours through them, at a pretty rapid rate.  Little tiny boats, have to be careful not to get tossed around in the turbulence of all that water pouring in.  Actually, all the boats are tied loosely to bollards or cleats along the top rim of the lock.  Usually someone gets out of the boat and guides the ropes holding the boat in place, feeding or taking up the slack as the water level rises (and the boat rises along with it.)

A little more--note the water levels are equal

Almost there

Leaving the lock

When the water level inside the lock is the same as the water level on the other side of the gate, the gates open and the boats continue on their merry way to Toulouse.  Filling the locks can take a while--thus the entire pace of canal travel sort of hinges around them.  Boat operators have to learn to take their turns--after boats have exited the lock,  the vessels going in the opposite direction enter for their turn to either rise or fall to the level on the other side of the lock gate.  It's a simple and efficient system.  

Steady with the ropes, now

On the way out

Through the gate

Headed to Toulouse

It's interesting to me to watch the boats coming and going on the canal---the majority  are rentals, usually Le Boat, with "captains" of varying skill and etiquette levels.  As a sailboat sailor, I was always taught that one did not drag one's fenders whi8le underway.  It's sloppy seamanship, but more importantly, it's inefficient.  Those rubber cushions provide drag that can slow down a boat's forward progress. 

 A fancy "Le Boat" rental

Bad seamanship and a hot-rodder, to boot

Correct use of fenders

 I am somewhere between annoyed and amused at the "admirals" who stand at the helm and bark orders to the other people on board, (or on the banks when entering a lock) while passengers sit,  gin and tonics in hand, and gawk at the quaint locals.  But my temper really gets riled when I see the boats speeding along, oblivious to, or uncaring about, the damage their wakes are causing to the sides of the canal.  And if they are playing rock and roll music at full volume as they go by--all I can say is I am going to try hard not to spark an international incident, but am not making any promises.

Look at what the speeding boats are missing

And what is the big rush?  Isn't the point to putt-putt along, and enjoy the moments on the water, in the shade of the magnificent plane trees, listening to the song of the blackbirds?   Look at the plants, wave to the walkers on the towpath, revel in the peace and quiet, and be in the moment.  It's what the south of France is all about 

Enjoying the Canal any way we can