vendredi 13 octobre 2017

Fraternite Generale and La Cite

On the way to our place in line
Yesterday I joined hands with 2000 other people, many of whom were students, and we formed a human chain around the interior wall of La Cite.  The sponsoring organization, the Fraternite Generale, has as its aims, extending the hand of fellowship to friends and strangers alike while sharing ideas of peace, equality, dignity.  (and for me I add sororite)  It's a worthwhile thing to do, and a way to make connections while sharing my love of Carcassonne.  So, my friend Jackie, who's visiting from Ohio, and i hopped on and off  the #4 bus and headed toward the appointed meeting spot at the Narbonne gate.

Lots of students of all ages

Leaves are starting to show color

It was a hive of activity; people had been getting into place since 9:30 and it was just after 10 when we arrived.  We received our participation buttons from the registration tent (I knew the woman who handed us our souvenirs of the day--Carcassonne really is a small town), and armed with instructions to go where we were directed on the other side of the drawbridge, off we went.  We didn't know if we were red or blue--so the traffic director told us to pick a side.  Blue tt was and we headed south, up the incline of the lices (that's the word for the space in between the inner and outer walls and it's pronounced like lease) to find an empty spot to fill with our hands and arms.  We walked about half-way up the cobbled street and found a place between some other senior citizens and a group of high school students.  We claimed this as ours and waited instructions.
Roof lines of the Cite

The event was full of students, and they were full of energy.  Along with the whooping and shouted conversations typical of teenagers, the students next to me broke into the Marseillaise, changing key with every new phrase.  Alas, the French National Anthem is no easier to sing than the Star Spangled Banner.  I joined in on the chorus....
Remnants of parish church Place Marcou

Working on a 1000 year old church takes basic skills

Finally, the magic moment came when the citadel was completely encircled and aqll hands were joined.  It was fun, and a great opportunity to extend the hand of friendship to strangers of all ages.  I will do it again next year, as it's become an annual event and this year was extensively covered by the media.  It's not the first time I have dragged a visitor to some odd happening here in Carcassonne.  The opportunities for such events are frequent.\
Red awnings---"eyelids"

Afterward, we made our way up into the Cite proper to go to the artist's cooperative.  On the way there, we stopped in at my favorite photographer's gallery and learned, to my great dismay, that they are closing definitively within the month.  I will need to go back and get a couple of prints, as his work is stellar.  I am so sad to hear of his closing; his was one of the only two places I recommend for souvenir purchasing.  The second is the artists' co-op.

But my dismay at his closing paled when I got to the artists' co-op only to find it emply and shuttered!  Oh nooooo.  It was the only place in the tourist trap maze of the Cite to purchase truly local handicrafts.  I had just been there only two weeks before and ther was absolutely no sign that they were closing their doors.  I am sick at heart, as there is now nothing in the Cite that is locally made--there are the obligatory soap from Provence stores, and of course some food stores that carry canned cassoulet (yuk,if you can't get freshly made, don't bother) and jars of local jams and olive oil, but that's about it.  I get it that tourists want cheap souvenirs, and they son't seem to care that the plastic medieval shields and swords are all manufactured in China or Malaysia.....I was and still am, very upset about this.
Model of the fortress walls around the base of this monument

Ever since I started the history translation project, I've had a different feeling about the walled city.  I know we need tourist dollars and in order to get those dollars, we have to put up with a certain amount of unthinking behavior--really--do you see how narrow and crowded these streets are and yet you still bring both of your big dogs?  And if anything, I have learned that the Cite has always been and is ever-changing.  But la Cite is more alive to me now than it's ever been--the stories buried in the stones are closer to the sruface and I can hear their murmurings.  I just hate to see her covered in toruist gewgaws.  

Tower shadows

 

2 commentaires:

  1. As usual your sharing of your beautiful pictures and explanation of what I am seeing were fantastic again! Marian

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  2. Agree .local made crafts and art were hard to find in my visits in France. I agree with you..how sad! Very happy with the beautiful scarf that I did buy at the other artist coop...a true treasure!

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