Palau and its Muses

The concert hall

It's a mouthful--Palau de la Musica Catalana--the Catalan Music Hall, for short.  It's not the Barcelona Opera House, this music hall was founded by a choral group!  Something about that really resonates with me.

Exterior reflections

I have been in venues ranging from  Lincoln Center, Carnegie Hall, the Kennedy Center, the Meyerhoff, the Paris Opera, to little church auditoriums, campfire circles, chapels, and tiny community centers.  I can honestly say that this space is the most unusual I have ever encountered.  From the public spaces, to the seats, to the stage, it resembles nothing else I have seen.

Public space windows

I have said it before; I like sleek lines.  Clear lines.  Uncluttered and unadorned lines.  The Palau is none of these.  And yet I was charmed--enough to see what is booked there in October so I can include a performance there on a return trip to Barcelona.

The public spaces are bright and airy, and reminded me  of the main salon in Casa Batllo.  Outside there are a series of columns, all decorated in broken ceramic tile mosaics...no two are alike and where that normally would bother me, it worked in this case.

Roses everywhere

 I didn't get the sense of grandeur of say, the Meyerhoff, so imagine my surprise when I learned that the seating capacity is nearly the same.  I wanted nothing so much as to get on stage and see what the acoustics were like, but that will have to wait for another day, surely.  There is extensive use of ceramics and glass, so that HAS to make for brighter sound.

Columns on the outside balcony

Ceramic mosaic work

The ceiling has peacock inspired details in the corners.  Roses, a symbol for the Catalonians, is ever-present.  The centerpiece, of course is the funnel shaped skylight--it looks for all the world like  Tiffany glass.  The colors are vibrant and the purpose was to bring light into the interior of the building.  After having been in the surrounding streets, I finally understood why this was so important.

Central glass light funnel

Like Tiffany glass

Muses look on from behind the performers

One of the features that charmed me the most were the half statues/half paintings on either side of the back of the stage.  These characters represent Muses--the folk muses on one side and the classical muses on the other.  They are presented in such a way that they seem to be entering from the ether to not only inspire the performers, but to take an active part in the music-making.  I have ALWAYS said that music is not a spectator sport, and apparently the Muses of Catalan music are in agreement.

Muses--a closer look

She's playing along

I love the fact that this building was conceived by, built and maintained by, and is still owned by the choirs of the area who keep alive the Catalan music traditions.  Many of the productions involve flamenco music and dance.  In fact there was a troupe rehearsing while we were visiting.  Exciting and interesting to watch, I find rehearsals often, no USUALLY, more rewarding that the actual performance.  My old ORCA colleagues will attest to this.

Singers carved on the exterior of the building

Catalonians  LOVE choirs

After the tour, the clock and our stomachs signaled that it ws lunch time, so we had coffee, rather I had coffee and a sandwich at the Music Hall cafe.  The prices were surprisingly reasonable and the food was good.

Woodwork and roses

During my less productive times in Barcelona, I fretted that we weren't on the go enough, that we were missing things the city had to offer.  It's true that we we left some major sights un-explored  But I think we did and saw enough to get a feel for the city.  True, I didn't lose my head and heart right away, but I did see enough to know that I will return, and soon.