Carnaval 2017

Parading down one side of the Place

Spring would not be complete for me without a trip to Limoux for Carnaval.  Every year, it's different, but comfortingly the same.  I am sure that in terms of money invested, Limoux could never hold a candle to the perhaps more famous celebrations:  Rio, Venice, even New Orleans.  Limoux is not a big town, nor a rich town, but it can and does boast the oldest and longest-running Carnaval in the world. 

The children head off to the opposite side of the Place

It does have a little bit of local "amateurs putting on a show feel."  And I say this with absolutely no disparagement.  It is presented by amateurs; local clubs and organizations take turns presenting the festivities, which take the same sort of format.  There might be a speech, a skit, a performance of some sort in the middle of the Place de la Republic, and then two groups, each accompanied by a "marching band" retire to opposite diagonal corners of the square to parade to local traditional songs.  I notice locals singing to the bands' playing.  They occupy opposite corners so as to not get in each other's way.  

Stewardess costume

Pilot and his plane

Both groups proceed around the square, stopping in the bars and brasseries for libations.  Members of the parade wave wands--I have seen anything from hazel switches to wands festooned with glitter and shiny ribbons.  This year, one of the groups presenting provides activities for children; thus the children were parading around in costumes.  They were obviously not being given wine, but their leaders had a portable grill on which coils of sausage over hot coals emitted the most tempting aromas.  The kids gathered around, knowing their reward was coming, one only had to wait for the presentation to finish. 

Mouth watering!

Basque colors

Little Spanish senoritas

Pierrots with their purple ruffs

Costumes vary, but a few can always be counted on to appear; Pierrot the clown with the wide ruffs and white androgynous masks; the "beak" masks; Basque country red and black color combination costumes; assorted political figures.  This year, the Pierrots sported royal purple ruffs, the children wore the red and black lace and masks, and Donald Trump made an appearance, carrying his sombrero.  

Donald made an appearance at the "American" table

Because of the children, I guess, or the nature of the groups presenting yesterday, the tone was not as racy has I have seen in the past.  There were fewer cross-dressers and men flaunting balloon breasts.  And Madame (actually Monsieur) Piment d'espelette (Madame Chili Pepper) in full bustier and thong regalia was absent.  Perhaps at a later presentation he'll lead the parade again.

One of the bands

By far my favorite sight during this year's festivities was a young lady who was not one of the official participants.  She had on a red mask and a red cape, and "flew" around the empty fountain, hopping on an over the statues that are placed around the circumference.  There wasn't a hint of show-offiness about her; she was as unconcerned about being watched as it is possible for someone to be.  There was nothing in her manner except the sheer joy of movement, delighting in her agility, and the wonderful-ness of the moment.  Oh that we could all feel so free.  

A momentary pause to look around for the next perch

Yes, it's sort of amateurish, yes, it has a "small town" feel to it, but that's exactly why I like Carnaval so much.  A mere 1 Euro train ride, a warm and sunny spring day, a delicious lunch at a cafe on the square, and a dose of Carnaval festivities make for a glorious time.  

What century is this?  I never, ever tire of this view