Re-entry

Newly cleared dining table

After 19 days of house guests, I am having a hard time re-enterng my life.  This process has been further complicated by the changeover this past Saturday night from Standard to Daylight Savings Time.  I have never spung forward very well, but this year is turning out to be  really difficult.

But like everyone else, I do the best I can.  I have stopped beating myself with the guilt razorstrap,  I sleep so poorly that if I don't wake up until 10:00 now, well, that's when I wake up.  I did manage a bit of an earlier morning this morning and have been moderately productive. I got a load of bed linens and towels washed and dried.  Now I will iron the pillowcases---yes, you heard me, I will IRON the pillowcases, and the napkins, too!   I made a quick trip to Lidl for melons from Maroc, and oh my, fresh flowers!  I got 18 stems of lilac-colored tulips for only 3.99 Euros.  And they had pots of brilliant red geraniums, 2 for 5 Euros.  I couldn't pass them by.  So, half of my total grocery bill this morning was for flowers!  How French.  

Geraniums on the windowsill

It's not just the time change that has my head turned inside out; it's also trying to get back into my old routines and to get back into speaking, reading and thinking in French.  I had a 30 minute conversation with an older woman at the bus stop this morning and that helped.  It's a bit of a setback in French immersion to speak English for such an extended period of time.  I liked that it required zero effort to do so, but to the end of becoming une vraie carcassonnaise, it didn't help.

But my geraniums are on my kitchen windowsill and that is also a step further into French-ness, non?   As I have told countless students in my life, we eat an elephant one bite at a time, and I am learning the French ways one word at a time.  As usual,  comme toujours

Des Visiteurs

Sometimes it's hard to have house guests, especially, for 19 days. The biggest challenge I face is getting people to understand that while they are on vacation, I am not.  

Joann and Cynthia head out to go exploring--on their own.

Joann and Cynthia arrived on the 7th.  I think we have achieved some sort of equilibrium of "going" and "being."  Because, after all, part of the wonderfulness of life in the south of France is the "being."  I know it's hard for people from the States to get used to two hour lunches, but once you've surrendered to that rhythm, it makes such sense, especially to your physical well being.  Plainly speaking, if you're not hungry at noon, well, get hungry at noon.  That's when things really slow, we enjoy our big meal of the day, a glass or two of wine and visiting with friends and family.  Sunday lunches are especially revered.

trail markers for the Chemin de St. Jacques

Walking in Collioure

The Aude running full

Timeless view of Limoux

We've been to the Mediterranean, to Limoux for Carnaval, to La Cite.  

View of La Cite from the Canal

We've walked along the Aude, and the Canal du Midi, which are all activities that one might enjoy over and over, and yet again.  The light is always different, the air smells different with each walk. There's no need to hurry--the Canal and the Aude are timeless and will always be there.  

Ever-present Canal, except when they drain it for cleaning in the winter

Chairs in waiting for Collioure visitors

And I have taken my guests with me on my daily errands--bus trips to the "big" stores.  Going to buy toilet paper can be an adventure if you are open to the universe and the gifts it brings.  

My downstairs "neighbor" gives a lesson in "being"

I have also enjoyed the movies, and the St. Patrick's Day festivities.  I've had the great pleasure of running into acquaintances in the market.  Yes, it's important to "do" but the reason I live here is the "being." That is the biggest gift I try to give to people who come for a visit.

A gift from the Universe

Is yellow the color of welcome?

Foot chart in the cobbler's window

Cobbler, cobbler mend my shoe.....

Carnaval 2017

Parading down one side of the Place

Spring would not be complete for me without a trip to Limoux for Carnaval.  Every year, it's different, but comfortingly the same.  I am sure that in terms of money invested, Limoux could never hold a candle to the perhaps more famous celebrations:  Rio, Venice, even New Orleans.  Limoux is not a big town, nor a rich town, but it can and does boast the oldest and longest-running Carnaval in the world. 

The children head off to the opposite side of the Place

It does have a little bit of local "amateurs putting on a show feel."  And I say this with absolutely no disparagement.  It is presented by amateurs; local clubs and organizations take turns presenting the festivities, which take the same sort of format.  There might be a speech, a skit, a performance of some sort in the middle of the Place de la Republic, and then two groups, each accompanied by a "marching band" retire to opposite diagonal corners of the square to parade to local traditional songs.  I notice locals singing to the bands' playing.  They occupy opposite corners so as to not get in each other's way.  

Stewardess costume

Pilot and his plane

Both groups proceed around the square, stopping in the bars and brasseries for libations.  Members of the parade wave wands--I have seen anything from hazel switches to wands festooned with glitter and shiny ribbons.  This year, one of the groups presenting provides activities for children; thus the children were parading around in costumes.  They were obviously not being given wine, but their leaders had a portable grill on which coils of sausage over hot coals emitted the most tempting aromas.  The kids gathered around, knowing their reward was coming, one only had to wait for the presentation to finish. 

Mouth watering!

Basque colors

Little Spanish senoritas

Pierrots with their purple ruffs

Costumes vary, but a few can always be counted on to appear; Pierrot the clown with the wide ruffs and white androgynous masks; the "beak" masks; Basque country red and black color combination costumes; assorted political figures.  This year, the Pierrots sported royal purple ruffs, the children wore the red and black lace and masks, and Donald Trump made an appearance, carrying his sombrero.  

Donald made an appearance at the "American" table

Because of the children, I guess, or the nature of the groups presenting yesterday, the tone was not as racy has I have seen in the past.  There were fewer cross-dressers and men flaunting balloon breasts.  And Madame (actually Monsieur) Piment d'espelette (Madame Chili Pepper) in full bustier and thong regalia was absent.  Perhaps at a later presentation he'll lead the parade again.

One of the bands

By far my favorite sight during this year's festivities was a young lady who was not one of the official participants.  She had on a red mask and a red cape, and "flew" around the empty fountain, hopping on an over the statues that are placed around the circumference.  There wasn't a hint of show-offiness about her; she was as unconcerned about being watched as it is possible for someone to be.  There was nothing in her manner except the sheer joy of movement, delighting in her agility, and the wonderful-ness of the moment.  Oh that we could all feel so free.  

A momentary pause to look around for the next perch

Yes, it's sort of amateurish, yes, it has a "small town" feel to it, but that's exactly why I like Carnaval so much.  A mere 1 Euro train ride, a warm and sunny spring day, a delicious lunch at a cafe on the square, and a dose of Carnaval festivities make for a glorious time.  

What century is this?  I never, ever tire of this view

Quelle Surprise!

Snow during the early morning hours

I was, as usual, awake at 3:15 A.M.  It was raining and blowing against the shutters of my bedroom window.  As is often the case, I arose and walked into my office to check on the view. (Do other insomniacs get up and roam around when sleep eludes them?)  A wonderful photo opportunity presented itself, but my card was not in the camera--it was still in the laptop.  I didn't want to go to the trouble of firing up the device, removing the card, putting it in the camera and taking the shot.....so I went back to bed. Other photo opportunities will present themselves, I rationalized.   The rain's patter lulled me to sleep in no time. 

I awoke to the alarm, and trudged to the bathroom....how I envy people who are early morning bounders and not trudgers.  As I looked out the bathroom window, I got quite the surprise--snow on the surrounding roofs.  Quelle surprise!!!!  I didn't think it was that cold last night; obviously I was wrong.  The white stuff fell some time between 4 and 8, I guess.  

Makes a lovely pattern on the tiled roofs

I must confess that I had envisioned at least one wintry day comfortably seated in my kitchen, by the window, coffee and the newspaper with me, while I looked out on the snow.  I should mention that the kitchen chair is right next to the radiator, so it's always a toasty spot.   I was feeling a little "cheated" because we'd not had any white precipitation.  Snow is pretty rare here; I know that, but it doesn't keep from wishing.

This mess is what I should be working on

So, as my friend Mo pointed out, Dame Carcas has arranged to fulfill my every wish.  I have a ton of chores to do and errands to run to get ready for company, which arrives on Tuesday, but this morning, coffee, yesterday's paper, and snow-gazing made the number one spot on the list. 

So that all my space can be this serene and orderly

 Merci, Dame Carcas!   

But instead, I will spend some time gazing out the kitchen window