Feria

Feria 2016

Carcassonne just held its annual feria,  an event comparable to what we in the  US would consider a fair, but without the rides and games of the carnival midway.  It is connected to its close cousins in Spain, and indeed, the colors of the feria were yellow and red, the colors of the flags of Occitan and Catalonia.  Even the Musee des Beaux Arts sported yellow and red.

La Musee sports Feria colora

Celebrating the corrida cultyre

True ferias have roots in bullfighting and indeed, here in Carcassonne, there were corridas over the weekend.  I did not manage to attend, but there were colorful photos in Sunday's paper.  I have to confess to being fascinated with the spectacle and the heritage of bullfighting. I know that it is not politically correct to support or encourage the sport in any way, and I myself have  signed petitions to ban it.  But I think I need to get a little better educated about bullfighting. I don't know; it seems to me that the bulls, even though they usually meet their ends in the ring, have a better life than those steers who spend their lives on feedlots of the US.  At least in the bullring, the animals have a chance to inflict some revenge.  

stage is ready for the musicians

One of the dancers

Feria's Spanish roots are reflected especially in the music.  During the weekend, the Bastide was full of small bands of roving musicians entertaining in nooks and crannies with rhythms and harmonies of Andalusia and Catalonia.  I encountered a group on my way home from church yesterday--a 7 piece ensemble playing Latin music.  The drummer, who was 60 if he was a day, was really good.  Turned a corner, and there was yet another combo.  I have to confess that I do not know what was going on up in La Cite, because I almost never go there.

One way to keep cool

Another way to keep cool

The weather was Spanish, too, as in HOT. The local paper described the Sevillian dancers who were performing flamenco in Place Carnot as dancing in Sevillian heat.  But it made for a pleasant evening outside, listening to music, having a bite to eat, watching couples dance. People find their own ways of staying cool--fans, or a small pichet of beer or sangria.

Before the crowds arrive

According to the paper, there were 10,000 people in Square Andre Chenier Saturday evening.  The city erected a huge stage there for the musical entertainment.  One aspect of these free concerts is that everyone stands--there is no seating.  Another interesting aspect of this year's feria was the degree of security...I was carrying  my little purse, containing only a packages of Kleenex and my walled, but it had to be opened and searched.  After Paris, and Nice, local authorities are taking great pains to insure everyone's security.  Many locations have canceled their planned activities, but not sleepy little Carcassonne, I am happy and proud to say.  Feria goes on as planned!

One of the rugby bodegas

Another association offers food and drink

Andre Chenier was transformed into a little village of bodegas, manned (or womanned) by members of sponsoring associations or clubs, offering food and drink..  Several soccer and rugby clubs had stands, as did the local ski club.  The feria has a definite local feel--yes, there were tourists, but so many people belonged there--they greeted one another, and the people working in the bodegas.  There was a, "Yes, we will welcome those tourists who're still here, but this is for us," feel to the event.  

Menu of my chosen eating spot

I had my glass of sangria (delicious) and duck breast dinner  at the Pays d'Oc booth.  I love it that street food here consists of offerings like oysters, cassoulet, duck breast.  I didn't see a hamburger offered anywhere.  Lots of selections of fresh fish, too.  Tapas, of course.  The Mojito booth was doing well and people were walking around with wine, or a glass of beer and were actually managing to not be falling down drunk!  Imagine!! Responsible consumption of alcohol by adults.  Those Europeans! Again, this was a booth where I "rented" my glass--I got a Euro back when I took the empty glass back to the counter.  Clever.

Miguel

And partner

I confess that I left before the main music attraction--Chico and the Gypsies.  I was tired and as I mentioned before, there was no seating for the music.  I had already stood through the "warm up" act.  The prospect of standing with 10,000 people did not thrill me, and I had been able to get a dose of authentic feria, so I headed home shortly before 10.  I ran into my neighbors who were headed in as I was headed out.  I don't feel that I missed anything--my head was full of Latin rhythms and harmonies.  My stomach was satisfied with magret and sangria.  I had held several conversations at the dinner table with locals, enough to feel that I sort of belonged there.  

Members of the crowd dance

Now it is time for the town to turn its attention to the re-entry--back to school and the vacation season is over--back to work.  One thing I know for sure, there will something else to hold my attention right around the corner. I simply felt "right," a last salute to summer.

Beautiful summer evening sky

I think I like August" feria  almost as much as I like the Parade of Torches in December.