Southern Countryside

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Central courtyard of the Abbaye Fontfroide

Betty and I were invited to join John and Catherine on an outing to the eastern part of the Aude yesterday.  They'd rented a car for their week here and kindly asked us to go with them.  We had lunch reservations at Abbaye Fontfroide, and enough time for a trip through the abbey and its

wonderful gardens.

Perfect weather for Fontfroide

John's GPS trumped my paper map, and he programmed in the "eco" route, which made this back-roads kind of girl really happy.  I like being able to see the little hamlets and towns bypassed by the bigger and faster auto-routes.  Yes, it takes a little longer, but the unexpected discoveries are worth it.  Besides, we are in the south of France; what's the hurry?

The Abbaye is impressive and full of history.  I look at those buildings in amazement--all of those stones, in the buildings, in the walls, on the streets, were carried and laid by human hands.  And there is no shortage of rocks in the area. 

John and Catherine ponder the scents while Betty looks on

The tour involves all the senses, especially in the herb gardens.   The Abbaye produces its own wine, and invites the public to test their "noses."  They've set up a "smelling tube" station.  Uncork the end of a stainless steel tube, take a sniff and see if you can identify the scent.  I managed to get only one--vanilla.  I guess a career as a sommelier is not in my future!

Betty and John debate the merits of a tablet

Betty and Catherine and their audio guides

There are things to listen to as well, for those who don't want to take the guided tour.  Catherine and Betty opted for the tablets and audio guides, while John and I didn't want any encumbrances. In my own defense, I have been there before and have taken the tour.  This time I wanted to simply "be."

At the start of the tour, we met a woman, in medieval costume,at her spinning wheel.  She looked right at home among looms. carding devices, wool and some finished garments.  Woman's work indeed, was (and is) never done. 

Woman at her spinning wheel

Lunch

Lunch was both delicious and convivial.  We ordered (and drank) a bottle of white wine that paired well with my foie gras salad, Betty's scallop ravioli, and Catherine's fish.  Since John was driving, he refrained.  After lunch, we headed back to the gardens, climbing to the bee garden (the bees were all out at the white lavender busily gathering the nectar to bring back to the hives), and the "Sorceress Garden" (for women only).  I could spend the whole day in these gardens--the espaliered trees, the medicinal plants, the white lavender, the beautiful roses and the persimmon trees fascinate me.  I managed to record a video of the singing insects--the sounds of summer. 

White lavender

Welcome to Termes

From Abbaye Fontfroide, we drove to Termes which, although it feels like it's in the mountains, is at only about 1000 feet of elevation.  We parked and made our way to Cafe Milo for coffee, tea and a long chat with the waitress.  She informed us that the population of Termes is 21, but swells to 31 in the summer.  (Reminded me of Agness! only it's older and more picturesque) One of the local clients brought her dog, Yo-Yo to play fetch and have his ears scratched by adoring customers.  

Yo-Yo

After being duly refreshed, we meandered through the winding, narrow Termes streets, stopping at nearly every turn for a photo opportunity. The church was particularly interesting, as it's a stop on the Saint Jacques de Campostelle walk.  The street signs were in Occitan, not French.  

Gite for sale

There are two houses for sale, and we are consumed with curiosity about the price. We debated the merits and disadvantages of living in so remote an area. Some local children were having a tea party in the middle of the street and others climbed up and down the back alleys (where it would be impossible to bring cars) I pondered what a childhood in Termes would be like and how it would shape a child's personality.   I was shocked to learn that some of the locals commuted to Carcassonne to work; the waitress assured us that it was only a 40 minute commute.  (Note: it was much longer, but maybe because we took the "eco" route.) 

Termes hide-away

The day was full and after we got back to #34, we continued our day together with a bottle of Cremat de Limoux and aperos.  (It's amazing what kind of a meal we can produce on no notice)  Finally, fatigue forced Betty and me back to our own quarters and into our nests.  It was a superb day on so many levels, but most of all, because of the camaraderie.  I am indeed blessed to have such friends.