Carnival at Limoux

The pigs and the Chinese started off the festivities

Limoux is a small town a little to the south of Carcassonne.  It's actually upriver on the Aude, and is sort of a gateway to the high valley where the foothills to the Pyrenees begin.  The town has several claims to fame, one being the bubbly white Cremat de Limoux and the other is Carnival.  Limoux hosts the world's oldest and longest running celebration of revelry, supposedly a last hurrah before the beginning of Lent and the period of having to give up everything that's fun, tasty and or "bad" for you.  No wonder Carnival is so over the top.

The bands were much better this year

Traditional masks, not movie monsters

I am woefully ignorant of almost all Carnival customs and traditions.  I know that in Limoux, especially, political satire is at the forefront of their costumes and their float.  In most locations, Carnival runs only for a short period of time; in Limoux, it begins the first Saturday of January and runs every weekend until Easter.  I guess they choose to ignore that Lent part, where they stop partying.  Bad for tourism, and plenty of tourists park themselves in the town square to witness the frolicking.

This guy spent lots of time gazing into restaurant windows

Headed indoors for refreshments

Traditionally the millers open the first procession.  In their white coats and bright red scarves, they inaugurate the season by first paying a visit to the prefecture, probably to poke fun at local officials.  This year, the state of emergency put in place nationwide as a result of the Paris attacks in November meant that they weren't allowed to prance around in front of what we'd consider the town hall.  It made for anguished editorials in the local papers--tradition was being trifled with, and nobody liked it.

I hope the guy on the right is wearing a mask

A blur of tulle and feathers

On subsequent weekends, other groups have the honor of displaying their costumes and creativity.  When I saw the festivities in 2014, it was the Basques, dressed in traditional black and red.  I have seen photos of people dressed like the ingredients for crepes--a bottle of Grand Marnier, a bag of sugar...some of these costumes get very creative and very involved.  There is almost always a theme, even if I can't figure out what it is. Stores sell masks, and I think that anyone can wear one and march along with the revelers, although to be honest, I have not seen that done in Limoux.  I did see it at that creepy Carnival here in Carcassonne in 2014. 

I think he represents the charcuteries

I decided to pay a visit this past Saturday. It was a nice day, the train ride is cheap enough, I was needing a break from being sick (my first French cold) and I wanted to see what was on tap for the day. 

Member of the chicken group

There are three "processions" a day on both Saturday and Sunday.  This year there were two groups, each with its own band following behind, playing lively tunes that, unfortunately, get stuck in your head.  The first group was made up of people in pig costumes, most of whom were carrying meat cleavers marching along with people dressed as Chinese..brocade and "coolie" hats.  I don't have a clue what their connection or theme was.  "Chinese pork," maybe?

Cleaver-wielding pig

Poultry representative?

The other group, again with its own band, consisted of chickens, brides and cross-dressers, all waving things, from a toy trumpet to switches, to wands, to a very red ukelele?  I can't begin to guess what they represent.  

Onlookers and the guy with the red "guitar"

The activity sort of goes like this: one group starts the fun;  they prance and twirl around in the arcade, dance, and wave their arms in time to whatever the band is playing.  They then proceed to go into the bars, band and all, where I assume they are all given a drink.  While they are inside, the other group starts at the opposite end of the plaza and gives its version of revelry.  They alternate putting on a show for about 90 minutes.  Then they take a break.  

This guy marched with the cleaver-waving pigs

I don't know--it seems just a little creepy and a little forced to me.  There's not much interaction with the crowd, nor are there many invitations to the crowd to get involved and come along with the "merry-makers."  I don't know what I expect, but every Carnival I have seen here has left me unimpressed.  There is some great artistry in the costumes and especially in the masks.  I don't get the feeling that anyone is having fun; they are there because, by God, it's a tradition that must be upheld.  And in Limoux's case, it is what brings in tourists to patronize the restaurants that enclose the Place de la Republique.  The town has to do what it must to survive.

I don't know who this is supposed to be

Little pink lady

So, if anyone can enlighten me as to the origin of the willow "switches," or those masks with the long beaks, I would be grateful.  If the participants were really following the purpose of Carnival, wouldn't they be trying to eat plenty of "fat"? 

The Aude at Limoux, looking upriver

Aude at Limoux, looking downriver

It wasn't a horrible day.  The costumes were impressive.  Lunch was magnificent!  Duck breast (where I both surprised and impressed the waiter by ordering it rare) accompanied by the best legumes--vegetables-- grilled fresh wild asparagus, and pureed yellow and orange carrots.  The weather was great, the train ride (only 1 Euro each way) was interesting--I had a non-stop conversation with some bum, but I got to practice my French!   Not a bad way to spend a Saturday afternoon in the south of France.