Toulouse Sightseeing

Facade of the Capitole

Myrie wanted to see Toulouse while she was in the south of France.  I have to confess that I was ambivalent about it.  I have been to the Rose City multiple times, but have never been able to really warm up to it.  To be fair almost all of those trips were to meet someone at the airport, so I hadn't really dedicated any time to be a tourist.  I was hoping this trip with her would change my opinion.

Capitole plaza Christmas tree

She booked a hotel, the Courtyard Marriott, out near the airport, which makes perfect sense when one has a 6:30 AM flight.  Their location and complimentary shuttle service eases non-French-speaking fears about meeting departure schedules.  However, it's not a hotspot for sightseeing, so I was concerned about getting to and from the center of Toulouse, where all the sights are located.

Market day as seen from inside the Capitole

Ceiling of Notre Dame des Taur

Joan of Arc

I needn't have been concerned.  The English-speaking concierge at the Marriott had bus and subway routes all mapped out for us. The L2 bus stops practically at their front door, and takes passengers to the Metro stop, which is its terminus--end.  The Metro A line stops right at the Capitole, so for 3.20 Euros we had a traffic-jam free ride to and from the sights.  I am getting more and more comfortable with bus lines and I am really proud of Myrie's intrepid spirit at learning public transportation.  Hardly anything scares car-driving Americans as much as having to ride a city bus.

Basilica of St Sernin

St Sernin inside lights

We checked in, ditched our luggage and made our way to Centreville--downtown.  The Capitole was buzzing with tourists and the first order of business was getting me some lunch.  I have to admit that I have, or at least my stomach has, fully adapted to the lunch schedule of the south of France.  Lunch begins at 12 noon and ends at 2:00, and they mean it.  Myrie was surprised to watch restaurants turn clients away who arrived at 2:10.  I am a little embarrassed to say that because we were so late getting into town, we settled for a McDonald's lunch.  But we ate outside in the warm Toulousian sun with the hundreds of other people having a too-late lunch in the Capitole plaza.  It wasn't bad!  

Romanesque Ceiling of St. Sernin

Then it was on to St Sernin by way of Notre Dame de Taur.  Both churches honor St. Saturnin, Notre Dame claiming to be built on the spot where the saint came unstuck from the bull (taur) that gored him and dragged him to his death. Charming story, no?  The two churches are quite different architecturally, and St. Sernin is located on the site of a former abbey.  I  liked the stained glass in Notre Dame, but prefered the lighting in St. Sernin.  It is also one of the convergence points in Toulouse for the St. Jacques de Compostelle pilgrimage walk, which fascinates me.  One day I hope to walk at least a segment of it.

Another church to visit another time

A huge church along the Garonne--also for another visit

By then it was getting chilly and dark. The lights had come on the rides at the plaza, adding to the already festive air We grabbed a baguette sandwich and made the return trip to the hotel.  Unfortunately, their restaurant was closed for the school vacation holidays, so we weren't able to get anything from there.  And as I said, we were sort of in the middle of nowhere, (but on a great bus line to get somewhere).  Besides, we were both tired.  I don't handle that sort of "tourist shuffle" as well as I once did.  Sleep wasn't long in coming.

The Grand Staircase inside the Capitole

Ceiling in the staircase---the French paint the sky, only better

The next morning, we helped ourselves to the buffet breakfast and I had American style bacon for the first time in over a year.  Airbus is located two stops up the bus line, and this hotel gets a lot of Americans who travel to Toulouse to meet with their colleagues in the aerospace industry.  Their menu reflects that.  I also had a pancake...again, not a French food.  

One of the paintings, L'Ete (Summer) in the upstairs hall of the Capitole

Close up of the brushstrokes in the painting above

Then it was back downtown to the Capitole.  When we emerged from the Metro, we found ourselves staring at a huge covered market.  Marie groaned aloud, something like, "Oh great!  A shopper she is not.  She doesn't even like "window licking."  But she was a good sport and walked along through the aisles of purses and leather goods and clothing with me.  In fact, she even bought a few items....maybe I will get some "bazaar" in her blood, yet.

Myrie studies the indoor Christmas tree

Christmas tree reflected in the mirror

We went on to the interior of the Capitole--what amazing municipal offices.... I loved the artwork, the black "fern" veined marble, the mirrors, the French excess of it all. I believe that the French think it is a sin to leave one square centimeter undecorated, and when that sensibility is combined with the Catholic church's love of ornamentation, well, the effect can leave me dizzy.   But I confess to being really taken with the inside of this building.  

Black marble with a fern pattern

Ceiling of the interior hallway

Presents in the sleigh

Could we get a little more paint on these, please?

The Toulouse Opera, right around the corner, was presenting Leonard Bernstein's Candide.  Had I known, I would have gotten a ticket and extended by stay by one day.  The finale to that piece is one of my most favorite works.  But they are presenting Mozart's Abduction from the Seraglio next month, so I will try to get up there and see it.  Between Carcassonne, which is mounting three works this season--Merry Widow, Tosca and Carmen, and the offerings in Toulouse, the opera lover in me will be very happy indeed.

Occitan Cross, Sun and Moon in Mosaic

I wonder what he did.

 We left the Capitole and found a little cafe for a sumptuous but not expensive lunch.  Myrie enjoyed lasagna and I had the plat du jour--the special of the day--minced lamb on a butternut squash puree with grilled vegetables--zucchini, tomato, and a slice of fennel.  I can't recreate the lamb or the butternut puree, but I am going to try my hand at the grilled fennel--it was so yummy. Our dining neighbors had desserts that looked to die for--a chocolate cake with pistachios, tiramisu, poached pears covered in chocolate....but we did not indulge.

Pondering dessert

Then it was off to find the Garonne River.  On the way we passed the art museum--Musee des Augustins.  I will see that on the next visit.  We spent a lovely afternoon on the Pont Neuf and the banks of the Garonne.  The sky was the wonderful south-of-France blue and the river was as still as I have ever seen a body of water.  There were people all along the terra cotta walls enjoying the sun and one another.  I got some photos that I am not ashamed of.  It was a good afternoon.

Garonne looking downriver

Taking advantage of a sunny day

Reflections in the river from Pont Neuf

Sculling under the Pont Neuf

I like the little house--two windows wide (behind the little tree)

We then called it a day and headed back to the hotel.  Myrie had a very early wake up call and that arduous flight across the Atlantic ahead of her, so we wanted to get as much rest as possible.  She was up after a restless night and off to the airport.  I watched the news, dozed and then made my way into the day.  

Memorial to anti-slavery fighters

Pathway in the public garden

Zen garden

Persimmons--after the heavy frost, they will be ready to eat

I spent the morning in the botanical gardens at Compans Cafarelli, and really enjoyed the Japanese garden.  The night had been cold, with a heavy frost, which, even by almost noon, hadn't fully burned off.  But the morning was perfect for a brisk walk, and lunch inside a brasserie was warm and cozy.  I was able to catch up on some writing and enjoy a coffee in the warm early afternoon sunshine.  Then it was time to hop aboard the TGV--thankfully I already had my ticket home, as the station was a zoo and the train, at least the car I was in, was completely full.  A 40 minute train ride and I was back home.

Pathway steps

Tea house, pond and bridge

I have to say that my feelings about Toulouse have shifted in a positive direction.  I love their commitment to the Occitan heritage.  I  want to return for the opera and the art museum and there are still many, many churches I haven't seen.  I want to learn about the count of Toulouse and his misadventures during the time of the Cathars.  It is relatively inexpensive and wonderfully convenient or me to go there by train.  I expect to be spending more time in the Rose City--actually Pink City-- in 2017.

Bridge against a heavy frost

Sete

Octopu

Canal near the train station

Me

Myrie wanted to see the Mediterranean. Although it is too chilly now to be dipping a toe into the water, she at least wanted to put her pinkie finger in.   Normally, I take people to Collioure to see the Mediterranean; the beaches are easily accessible, the food is local, and the artists are interesting.  But she suggested this time that we go somewhere I hadn't already visited, so we chose Sete.

Reminder of the Mediterranean

Tribunal de Prefecture

Sete has canals, but it's also situated on a hill

It is on the sea, but from the downtown area, the water itself isn't readily accessible;  there's a seawall and lots of rip-rap to cut down on the erosion.  But we were able to see the water, and even feel a little spritz of it now and again when a particularly large wave "whoomped" against the rocks.  It sufficed.

The Mediterranean on an overcast day

The lighthouse on the hill

Cousin Myrie against the backdrop of the Museum of the Sea

Sete is known as the "Venice of the Languedoc" because the city is full of canals.  Unlike a place like Annapolis, the bridges don't raise and lower to allow for passage of sailboats and large motor yachts.  I think they have to sort of work their way out of the maze of small waterways.  Or, maybe they just stay berthed and provide evidence of the prosperity of their owners.  

Afternoon reflections in one of the canals

I think this is the "poor people's" marina.

Sete is where the Canal du Midi's Mediterranean outlet is located.  The Canal passes through Sete and then out into L'etang du Thau   the lagoon of Thau.  One day I will try to locate where the Canal enters (or exits, depending on the direction in which one is traveling) the lagoon.  There wasn't much boat traffic, even down at the working port.  It is definitely NOT tourist season.

 Moliere theater

We took the train from home--can I tell you how much I love train travel and love living five minutes from the station--and arrived there a little before 10.  We stopped for photos along the bridges spanning the canals, and I was enchanted with the decorations on the Christmas tree in front of the Moliere theater. 

Can you see the snowman inside?

We made our way past the Tribunal of the Prefecture  down to the old city, where-----ta da!! the market was in full swing.

Myrie surrounded by purses at the market

 And what a market it is.  It is the biggest one I have ever been to here in the south of France, bigger even than the one I have been to in Toulouse.  I adore markets, and this one was--wow!  Lots of clothing and household goods, purses galore,  makeup, perfumes.  And that was just on one side of the main street in the old town. On the other side are the foodstuffs--fresh fruits and vegetables, cheese and ham vendors, huge vats of paella and choucroute (sauerkraut) cooking to tempt passers-by.   And people were buying.  There were probably some tourists, but most of what I saw were local people stocking up for their holiday meals and entertaining.  Oh the olives--bright green, and dark piccolines.  Garlic and plates of hummus and tapas.  You can really see the Italian and Spanish influences in the Sete market.  

Offerings of paella and choucroute

Myrie, to her credit, bore with me.  She's not a market kind of girl.  The shuffling pace of market does wear me out after a while, so we made our way down to the Office of Tourism, got some maps and then headed down to the port.  There was a fairly large cruise liner in port, but I saw little activity in and around it.  Myrie walked down to the lighthouse that marks the entrance to the port--there is another one high on the hill.  (That was a surprise to me--I expected low and flat because of the canals, but the bluffs and high hills to climb came as a surprise.)  I sat along the breakwater and had a delightful conversation with a young mademoiselle of about 5 and her grand-pere.  

Sitting along the seawall in Sete

We found a great restaurant for lunch--all of the food (meats, fish) that need to be cooked are grilled over/under a wood fire.  Our lunch was reasonably priced,  and delicious. 

This was the "stove" in the restaurant where we lunched

I got just a bit tipsy from the 25 cl of red wine; even the cup of strong cafe didn't help all that much.  Being a little "buzzed" wasn't unpleasant and it certainly did not hamper my ability to enjoy the rest of the afternoon--it was just unexpected. 

Octopus statue in old town square

Christmas tree Old Town square

We trained our way back to Carcassonne, arriving home after dark.  Myrie got to share one of my favorite experiences--riding in a train after dark--being safe and warm and cocooned in this almost living organism wending its way through a darkened countryside, seeing the occasional lights of other human beings gathering themselves in for the evening.  

Apricot poinsettias at Sete flower market

Octopus looking back at the crowds

Open air flower market at Sete

I plan to return to Sete, maybe in late February or early March, before the tourist onslaught.  There is a Museum dedicated to the sea and a museum dedicated to lesser-known artists as well as a museum dedicated to the poet Paul Valery that I would like to visit.  There just wasn't time to do that yesterday.  (And go to the market, too!!!)

Moored at old town canal

Colorful canal reflections

A spot of color against the white boats of the canals in Sete