"Perfumed" Garden Tour

Entrance to the garden

This past weekend, all Europe celebrated Les Jours du Patrimoine--Heritage Days.  There were tours and lectures, concerts and exhibits explaining origins and history.  Even the Protestant Church that I attend in Carcassonne had a series of posters placed around the sanctuary showing highlights of the church's history.  It was as if people were saying, "Here we are; this is where we've been and this is what we are about."  What an amazing coordination of effort--tv stations, newspapers, radio. posters--all manner of advertising and urging people to go out and learn something of their history.  What a concept!

The red tailed parrot who kept whistling

I chose as my highlight of the weekend a guided tour of the "Perfume Garden" in Limoux, a small town about 13 miles south of Carcassonne.  To get there, one takes the 1 Euro train down and the 1 Euro train back.  It was a spectacular weather day, and the timing was perfect. I could get a reain, take the tour and get the next to last train home.  You have to be careful, because the Sunday and school holiday schedules are not the same as the normal Monday through Friday schedule.  I wouldn't like to be stranded, so I pay attention.   I attended church, came home, changed clothes and walked back up to the train station.  Because of work on the train tracks, they put us on the autobus, which sometimes I prefer, because it actually goes through the little hamlets along the way--Leuc, Pomas--and I get to see the actual village, rather than simply the train station. 

End of the season figs

The directions printed in the paper to get to the Gardens were perfect and involved only a little walk along the bike path.  It was, as I said, a gorgeous day and the walk was easy and relatively short.  I arrived at the Garden a little early and was welcomed by the owner who promised he'd ring the bell to gather us at 3:00, when the tour would begin.  After admiring the pair of parrots right outside the front door, I took a seat, a bottle of water and my journal and occupied myself right up until the bell did indeed sound.

Although it looks like graffiti, it is natural

We gathered and the owner, incredibly animated, began regaling us with tales of how this garden started out small and little by little it has grown.  When asked how many people he had working for him, he let us know that he had "an army of two--himself and his wife."  That's why they have limited hours for visiting; they are busy working the rest of the time.

Our guide, explaining the way this tree is pruned

Our guide emerging with a handful of "duff"

One of my favorite ornamental grasses

Not only did they have the two parrots at the door, there was a big aviary where there were 6 or 7 more, only these were the expected green-feathered variety.  I go the impression that they were trying to provide a haven for birds that may have been abandoned.  

Hibiscus haven for Mr. Bug

Lots of arbors, and good mix of shade and sun

What I appreciated the most was this man's obvious love and enthusiasm for his life's calling.  He patiently explained what the plants and trees were, what pruning methods he used, how he dealt with invasive species.  He was knowledgeable and didn't seem to mind those "experts" in the crowd who wanted to show off their own knowledge.  God, there's always someone, isn't there?

Some of the last pink roses

I have to confess that at about the time we reached the ornamental grasses exhibit, I drifted away from the group.  As long as only he was talking, I could understand him, with the exception of technical terms that are simply not yet in my vocabulary.  But when everyone is talking at once, I get lost.  My language skills will get there one day, but are not there yet.  So, instead of being frustrated, I just took myself and my camera off on our own little tour.  I figured that now that I know where it's located, I can come back on my own and ask him specific questions.

And the last of the yellow roses

A sure sign of autun

The gardens are extensive and just the right mix of formal and eclectic for my taste.  Their exhibits range from the Medieval Garden to the Park for the Donkeys.  There's a Moonlight Garden, and a Tropical Garden ( I did learn that certain butterflies are crazy for banana tree flower nectar), Scented Geranium Alley, a Dry Garden, and of course, a large selection of roses.  It is, after all, the "Perfume" garden.  

These leeks look ready to pull

Grapes growing overhead

The roses were nearly over.  Some were those "cabbage" roses that don't form the tight buds we associate with long-stemmed beauties, but are big, blowsy, . powerfully scented blossoms.  Some looked like the wild roses I remember from childhood.    And yes, while some had already formed the "hips" those that remained still emitted their sweetness into the warm late-summer afternoon. 

Where else but in France?

These are "Elephant Head"--flipping the bird, more likely

For me, this garden was perfect--a mix of familiar and exotic.  I got to see the donkeys and the three honking geese, blindingly white in the sunshine.  "Three little maids from school are we..."  I loved the birds,  and was fascinated by the collection of ornamental grasses.  The plants are practical: leeks and basil and tomatoes. Or they are showy: dinner plate dahlias and fuchsias.  The place needs hours, maybe days, to truly explore and appreciate.  

Catalpa? 

 I am already looking forward to my next visit.

"Three little maids from school are we"