Red Line

Really LOOK at this building.  Does it not seem odd to you?

I did get up early on Thursday morning and go out for a walk in the cool of the Barcelona morning.  It felt like a slightly sultry day was ahead, but in that moment, the air was sweet and the humidity was not yet oppresssive.  The B & B was so quiet that it came as a little bit of a shock to discover all the normal hustle and bustle of a city getting ready for business--even though breakfast is not available until 9:00.  

I went down to Placa Catalunya.  The fountains were turned off and there was very little activity.  I was able to find a shady spot to do some writing, at least until "that guy"--the one who has to feed the pigeons--showed up.  At his appearance, no fewer than 500 pigeons swooped in.  That was my signal to leave.

Barcelona's Arc de Triomphe

Christopher Columbs points the way

Port facility

Distant view of  the glass hotel on Montjuic

Barcelona world trade center parking lot--deserted and slightly forbidding

Barcelona's former bullring

But while I was there I had an opportunity to observe on of the main buildings that borders the plaza.  For a major landmark, Placa Catalunya is pretty austere, especially given the general tendency for over-decoration. But this particular building looks as though someone has sawn two separate buildings in half and glued one end of one to the end of another.  They are completely different: different colors, different architectural styles, probably different periods.  I found it totally disconcerting.

Cable car from the port to Montjuic

Overlooking Barcelona

During our morning's Red line hop on-hop off tour, we visited the western side of the city.. We were afforded the chance to see the Columbus monument, vestiges of the many, many factories that populated parts of the old city near the port, the Customs building, the former bullring of Barcelona.  Bullfighting has been outlawed for some time now in Barcelona, and maybe all of Spain.  Interestingly enough, there are still bullfights here in Carcassonne. 

We began our climb to Montjuic and once there, I began to lose my heart to Barcelona.  This was the site of many of the venues in the 1992 Barcelona Summer Olympic games.  Montjuic looks down on the city and the Mediterranean.  At this time of year, it was green and lush.  Montjuic is full of attractions and museums.  The Joan Miro Foundation is there, as is the castle and the stadium built for the Olympics.  There are also plenty of walking trails and picnic tables--the spot invites lingering.

Joan Miro Foundation

A peek inside the Olympic stadium

Montjuic spires

It was also during this tour that the reasons for my slow warm up to Barcelona began to coalesce.  Barcelona believes in razing old buildings.  Entire neighborhoods were town down to make way for the Olympic village and the sites for the games.  What's important to Barcelona is to be MODERN, to showcase the latest and newest--cutting edge even, especially in architecture.  I got the impression that architects were the rock stars of the city, in the late 20th and early 21st centuries.  That's all well and good, but there doesn't seem to be any overarching design, no continuity of theme or motif, and certainly no rules.  One modern edifice is placed next to other modern edifices, and they don't share any common qualities--not shape, size, color, building materials.  It makes my head spin. 

It would be fun to watch a soccer match here

After Montjuic, we made our way back to Placa Catalunya, along the wide, ritzy boulevards.  Our guide cheerfully informed us that the cheapest apartments in this neighborhood went for a minimum of 650,000 Euros.  We got off at the Casa Batllo stop, as we had tickets for that Gaudi designed house. I wasn't so keen on taking on his Cathedral, Sagrada Familia, but I thought I could stand a more modest house of his deign. Our tour time required that we be there at 12:45, but because we had our tickets in hand, we were invited to come in right away.

Barcelona ommuter

A "Ritzy" part of town

Tram

And I walked into a house unlike any other I have ever seen.

Gothic and Flamenco

In front of the Barcelona Cathedral

Flamenco shadows and light

I have to admit that my concept of Gothic has been polluted by current images of black clothing, pale makeup and dark eyeliner.  I do remember when I understood it to be a period of time in architectural evolution, and was/is a style of architecture that I have long admired.  Lorraine and I took off after our hop on-hop off tour to explore the Gothic quarter of Barcelona, complete with a visit to the Cathedral.

Narrow, dark alleys wind up the cathedral doors

Headed toward the light

We window shopped down some narrow lanes that branched off from La Rambla, and did a little more than window shop in one or two stores.  Finally we emerged, ready for lunch into the sun-drenched plaza that contains the Cathedral.  We found ourselves in a local "dive" and I dined royally on fried eggs over potatoes--it was just perfect! 

Thus fortified, we made our way around the back lanes that lead up to the front door of the Cathedral.  It was here that my "issues" with Barcelonan modernism, if that's the correct term, really flowered.  I live in Carcassonne, a French city that makes its living by NOT tearing down old things.  There are strict laws about what can and cannot be done to the outside of buildings.  There would never be a question of tearing down an old building, even if it were crumbling.  A way would be found to save it and to integrate the repairs into the architectural style of the original building.

Looking up into the spire

Such laws do not seem to exist in Barcelona.  Parts of the centuries old cathedral were still standing--barely.  The "repairs" or the integration of the restoration consisted of what looked like painted sheets of plywood.  I found this lack of continuity jarring.  By the time we finished in the plaza, I was thoroughly disenchanted with the buildings and mindset of Barcelones. 

The ceiling is not overly dark, a happy surprise

Pink plywood?

The cathedral interior of course is not free--it costs 7 Euros to enter.  I can't be sure, but I think even Notre Dame has free admission.  I really don't mind--maybe if more of our old crumbling down French churches would request an entry fee, more could be done toward their salvation and restoration.  Somebody has to maintain the building and pay the light bill.

Elaborately decorated seats, for the choir, perhaps?

Think of the time, effort and craftsmanship

Cross of St. George

I was unprepared for just how ornate the Barcelona Cathedral is.  It is far too decorated for my taste, but I did find it very interesting.  Once again, the marriage of church and money left me shaking my head.  The little chapels that line the main part of the cathedral on both sides were "furnished" by wealthy families of Barcelona, each one trying to outdo the others in the use of gold.  The choir stalls are elaborately painted, although the seats look mightily uncomfortable.  One very major difference between European (or at least ) and American sanctuaries is the padding of the seats.  In Europe there is NONE, not even on the kneelers.  And in some of the churches in Carcassonne, there aren't even kneelers--one gets down on one's knees on cold, hard stone!

Looking down into the crypt

I have never been in any church before where one can descend to the "crypt" right in the middle of the sanctuary.  It was lit up and although behind a grate, there was an altar, draped and accented in gold.   Enormous sprays of lilies perfumed the sanctuary, massive as it was.  Everywhere I saw the Cross of St. George, the patron saint of Barcelona, most often carved into the backs of the pews.  

Breathtaking bouquet

As always, what I am most curious about whenever I enter a new-to-me church is the acoustical property of the space.  Unfortunately, with so many people in there, bursting into song, or even humming softly was not an option.  

The Catalan flag is ever-present

 

Who's got the most money?

Obviously, this family had plenty

Overall, I quite enjoyed the Gothic cathedral and the Gothic quarter.  After leaving the plaza, we decided to take an alternate route that seemed to parallel the street on we entered.  Seemed is the operative word here.  What I learned about this quarter is that it doesn't necessarily follow a grid pattern.  Eventually it became clear that we were NOT getting any closer to La Rambla and so we stopped for a coffee and directions. It was a nice little pick me up. 

Not your average "glass"

Beautiful color

We were headed back to La Rambla because I had found a flamenco show and our tickets were for the 7:15 performance.  I like to scout out the location in advance so I know where I am going.  We'd planned to do that much earlier in the day, but we strayed off in other directions.  Once back on La Rambla, we found our destination.  Again, building numbers don't seem to be logically arranged, and it happened that our venue was tucked away--upstairs.  We had about an hour to kill before the show, so we sat along the busy street with a glass of sangria.  

Apparently there's no such thing as a "glass" of sangria, like one gets a glass of wine.  Sangria is served in huge pitchers or goblets that look like soup bowls on a stem.  But oh, my, how delicious!  Sangria and tapas--now that's good!

Strong women dancers

Clapping, stamping

Pure energy

In your face dancing

Eventually we made our way to the  show.  I had seen a flamenco version of Carmen earlier in Carcassonne, so I knew a little about what to expect.  One of the great things about flamenco, to my way of thinking, is that it showcases strong women.  It's not gentle--lots of clapping and stomping, and of course, rapid fire footwork.  The singing is edgy, raw and full of strong emotions. No bel canto in flamenco. The performers are not spring chickens--they have some living under their belts, which only adds the truth of experience to their performances.  Men play guitars and help with the clapping, sometimes using "canes" to rap out the rhythms.  There were three women dancers, and they worked, by golly.  They're not stick thin like ballerinas, but have flesh and curves.  The "star" male dancer looked for all the world like Johnny Depp.  They programmed him last, before the final costume change and photos were permitted.  He was, admittedly, very good!

Her skirt is part of the dance

Thus our first full day in Barcelona came to an end.  We made our way back to the B & B for a good night's sleep.  I guess we had dinner, but I can't remember it.  I suppose it was the sangria! 

Guitarists and vocalists

Hopping On But Not Off

C

Placa Catalunya.  This building looks normal.  The tree blocks the real story

Lorraine waits to hop on

"Bumble bee" taxis all over town.

I went to sleep on Tuesday evening firmly resolved to get up early and go exploring my temporary neighborhood in the cool of the day.  A late sleep put an end to that pipe dream!  I was out on the terrace for a 9:00 A.M. breakfast--fruit, juice, really not very good coffee, and pastries, ham, cheese, and yogurt.  it was ust enough to get the day started.  Mornings in Barcelona start late. 

La Rambla--pedestrian and busiest street in Barcelona

Some other Americans were staying at the same B & B.  One man came over and offered to sell us tickets to Casa Batllo, the Gaudi designed house. He'd inadvertently bought duplicates.    He is a designer and he and his wife love love love Gaudi and were most enthusiastic that we see this house. We thought, Why not, and coughed up 25 Euros a piece for our timed visit the next day.  The fact of the matter is that visits to unfamiliar places and venues are most often improved by a tour, whether it's a living breathing guide, or a set of headphones and a mini tablet.  It so helps to know what you're looking at.  Guided tours don't come cheaply, so choose wisely.  In this case, I think we made the very best choice.

Spire of the Cathedral

After breakfast and that one last bathroom visit before heading out for the day, Lorraine and I made our way to Placa Catalunya to get on one of the hop on-hop off open air tour buses.  I have, in the past, looked down my nose at these things, dismissing them as "touristy."  By golly, I would do my OWN tour.  But the thing is, unless you have done a great deal of advance research and planning, these tours are the best way to get a feel for a new city.  Neither Lorraine nor I had done nearly enough research into this trip, truth be told.  We planned to take the "Red" tour, which covered the western part of the city, but ended up in the wrong line, and made a spur of the moment decision to take the "Green" tour instead.  It's a little longer and covers the south and eastern parts of the city.  We had bought two consecutive days worth of tickets, so it really didn't matter whether we red-ed or green-ed.   Green it was.  

We passed the old cathedral on our way down one of the major boulevards headed to the port.  I plan to learn at the very least, the names of the major arteries of Barcelona.  It will make finding landmarks easier.  Soon enough we were at the port, and among high-rise, ritzy beachfront apartments.  It was then, as the guide rattled off the names of the designing architects, that I got my first inkling of just how important architects and modern buildings are to Barcelones.  My lack of knowledge is appalling, especially in the area of architecture.  (Yet another thing to remedy)  

From the port looking north

Doesn't it look precarious?

We went into the port, where millions of dollars in yachts are moored or in dry dock.  All of that money made me a little uncomfortable, especially when we went through the fishermen's neighborhood of very modest dwellings.  The beaches were clean and not overly busy this early in the season, although there were a few sunbathers and swimmers.  I understand that this area is very lively at night and I can well believe it.  My next trip there will include a seafood dinner seaside.  

We are at the beach!!

 

And there's always that ONE guy--the one who thinks the request to remain seated applies only to everyone else on the bus.  I kept telling myself that I should stop bitching; I was in Barcelona, for heaven's sake, and so what if he kept blocking the view.  I could always come back any time I wished, and it was apparent that HE didn't have that opportunity.  Fortunately he and his partner got off at Sagrada Familia, and the rest of us didn't have to contend with his big old frame blocking our sight lines.  

One building in particular was quite impressive.  It looks like a big bullet or cucumber standing on end.  At night there are light shows and this becomes multicolored  It's rapidly becoming another icon representing the city of Barcelona. 

Looming over the neighborhood

Kind of like a spaceship

Full of windows

Energy efficient?

Sagrada Familia through the trees

Ah, yes, Sagrada Familia.  Everyone, but everyone is SUPPOSED to go see this Gaudi masterpiece, and everyone is supposed to LOVE it.  I don't know if it is my natural disinclination to follow the herd (I promise you that if everyone is turning left, I most likely am going to turn right) or if I really don't like this monstrosity.  I can say that I understand the importance of it, but aesthetically, I am not buying it.  I told Lorraine that I didn't really want to go in, but we were able to get some good photos of the exterior from the bus.  It was simply over-run with tourists.  

Part of the exterior

Work is still in progress

Some of the facade

"Bones"  Tree trunks? for buttresses? 

Speaking of lines of tourists--nowadays, everyone goes on the Internet to buy tickets to these venues, because they want to "jump the line."  Well, if everyone already has a ticket to get in, there's still a line, isn't there?  And these tickets are not cheap--it's 15 Euros just to get in the door.  That does not include any sort of tour, which I need to do if I am going to learn anything.  For me the great advantage of having the ticket in hand is that it commits your time.  And that is also the great disadvantage, as it prevents impromptu trips that might interfere with your schedule day/time of visit.

Bartholomew?

I swear this reminded me of Lincoln

The bottom line is that we saw Sagrada Familia but did not go in.  Lorraine put it beautifully when she said that much of Gaudi's work reminded her of the landscape in movies like Lord of the Rings.  I find that kind of landscape/architecture slightly creepy.  And she also hit the nail on the head when she said that it looked like a big sand castle!!!   The drippy kind, not the sculpted kind.  I don't know, perhaps I will relent and visit it one day, maybe in the winter when lines won't be so long and I won't get jostled so by hordes of tourists. 

The towers

Help me, I don't know what this represents

Startlingly classical figure holding a rake?

Jesus carries the cross

The bus then wound its way through some more tunnels as we inched higher and higher.  Again, I didn't realize Barcelona was so tiered, and downright steep in some places.  We stopped at a building referred to as the Rotunda, near the place where the funicular takes people up to the top of Mount Tibidabo.   That ride too, have to wait until a later visit.  But I was fascinated by this building and the use of broken pieces of ceramics on the exterior.  In fact, this decorative style is everywhere, inside and out, and the shiny nature of the ceramics makes many of the building shine.  In fact there is a building-sized fish sculpture along Barcelona Beach that glows golden, which we got to see from the bus, but I was never at the right angle for a photo.  

The ROTUNDA 

Can you imagine this as your home?

Not paint--ceramic tile pieces

I will never again complain about French ornate-ness

One little angel outside the door

The tile gleams in the sunlight

We ended our trip back at Placa Catalunya, just a little after noon.  After all that sitting, it was time to stretch our legs on La Rambla (which I kept calling La Plancha--oh dear!)  So we set off down the busiest street in Barcelona and then veered off into the old quarter.