Abbaye de Fontfroide Photos

The big spinning wheel

Rustic construction

Snaggle-toothed gargoyle

topiary trees in the main courtyard

Last of the wisteria

A peek at the courtyard

Main stained glass window inside

Main stained glass window outside

Main courtyard wisteria from above

Dormitory window--why did they all look so mean?

Wine barrels on premises

The rose garden

Stripes

White lavender

More white lavender--full of bees

Rose of the Four Winds

A lovely red

Water lily

Madame Figaro

A lovely pink

Rose named for the Abbaye

A lovely rose-coral

Central sculpture

Our Lady of the Rosary

A sweet peach color

White and light pinks

With a strong frangrance

In the upper gardens

Multi-level upper gardens

Catherine and Betty intense examination

Insect hotel

Espaliered apple trees

From the hilltop gardens looking across to the far hills

Sorceress garden

Southern Countryside

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Central courtyard of the Abbaye Fontfroide

Betty and I were invited to join John and Catherine on an outing to the eastern part of the Aude yesterday.  They'd rented a car for their week here and kindly asked us to go with them.  We had lunch reservations at Abbaye Fontfroide, and enough time for a trip through the abbey and its

wonderful gardens.

Perfect weather for Fontfroide

John's GPS trumped my paper map, and he programmed in the "eco" route, which made this back-roads kind of girl really happy.  I like being able to see the little hamlets and towns bypassed by the bigger and faster auto-routes.  Yes, it takes a little longer, but the unexpected discoveries are worth it.  Besides, we are in the south of France; what's the hurry?

The Abbaye is impressive and full of history.  I look at those buildings in amazement--all of those stones, in the buildings, in the walls, on the streets, were carried and laid by human hands.  And there is no shortage of rocks in the area. 

John and Catherine ponder the scents while Betty looks on

The tour involves all the senses, especially in the herb gardens.   The Abbaye produces its own wine, and invites the public to test their "noses."  They've set up a "smelling tube" station.  Uncork the end of a stainless steel tube, take a sniff and see if you can identify the scent.  I managed to get only one--vanilla.  I guess a career as a sommelier is not in my future!

Betty and John debate the merits of a tablet

Betty and Catherine and their audio guides

There are things to listen to as well, for those who don't want to take the guided tour.  Catherine and Betty opted for the tablets and audio guides, while John and I didn't want any encumbrances. In my own defense, I have been there before and have taken the tour.  This time I wanted to simply "be."

At the start of the tour, we met a woman, in medieval costume,at her spinning wheel.  She looked right at home among looms. carding devices, wool and some finished garments.  Woman's work indeed, was (and is) never done. 

Woman at her spinning wheel

Lunch

Lunch was both delicious and convivial.  We ordered (and drank) a bottle of white wine that paired well with my foie gras salad, Betty's scallop ravioli, and Catherine's fish.  Since John was driving, he refrained.  After lunch, we headed back to the gardens, climbing to the bee garden (the bees were all out at the white lavender busily gathering the nectar to bring back to the hives), and the "Sorceress Garden" (for women only).  I could spend the whole day in these gardens--the espaliered trees, the medicinal plants, the white lavender, the beautiful roses and the persimmon trees fascinate me.  I managed to record a video of the singing insects--the sounds of summer. 

White lavender

Welcome to Termes

From Abbaye Fontfroide, we drove to Termes which, although it feels like it's in the mountains, is at only about 1000 feet of elevation.  We parked and made our way to Cafe Milo for coffee, tea and a long chat with the waitress.  She informed us that the population of Termes is 21, but swells to 31 in the summer.  (Reminded me of Agness! only it's older and more picturesque) One of the local clients brought her dog, Yo-Yo to play fetch and have his ears scratched by adoring customers.  

Yo-Yo

After being duly refreshed, we meandered through the winding, narrow Termes streets, stopping at nearly every turn for a photo opportunity. The church was particularly interesting, as it's a stop on the Saint Jacques de Campostelle walk.  The street signs were in Occitan, not French.  

Gite for sale

There are two houses for sale, and we are consumed with curiosity about the price. We debated the merits and disadvantages of living in so remote an area. Some local children were having a tea party in the middle of the street and others climbed up and down the back alleys (where it would be impossible to bring cars) I pondered what a childhood in Termes would be like and how it would shape a child's personality.   I was shocked to learn that some of the locals commuted to Carcassonne to work; the waitress assured us that it was only a 40 minute commute.  (Note: it was much longer, but maybe because we took the "eco" route.) 

Termes hide-away

The day was full and after we got back to #34, we continued our day together with a bottle of Cremat de Limoux and aperos.  (It's amazing what kind of a meal we can produce on no notice)  Finally, fatigue forced Betty and me back to our own quarters and into our nests.  It was a superb day on so many levels, but most of all, because of the camaraderie.  I am indeed blessed to have such friends.

Heat and House Guest

Main square Toulouse

Summer heat has paid a visit to le Grand Sud....it was 97 degrees yesterday.  We've been trying to keep cool, shuttering the apartment against the sun, drinking gallons of water, not moving around very much.  While the building collects and holds the heat, the benefit of warm summer evenings is being able to go outside and commune with the other Carcassonnaises. 

Betty arrives

More exciting is the arrival of my friend Betty from the US.  I took the train to Toulouse on Friday to meet her at the airport and bring her back home.  Toulouse was a little cooler and less humid than was Carcassonne, and surprisingly uncrowded for a major tourist city.  I spent a little time down in the old city and then was off to the airport to meet Betty. I ran into a wedding in the park, a man walking down the street in a kilt, pleats a-swinging, and a French flag made of three solid color t-shirts hanging from a balcony. 

Toulouse carousel

Toulouse is famous for its brick building

She is exhibiting fewer symptoms of jet lag than I ever have after that trip from the west coast of the US.  It's a hard trip and made a little more difficult in such heat as we've had.  Nonetheless, we were off early to Saturday market to buy vegetables for soup, some cheese from the cows of the Pyrenees, some flowers--all the essentials for daily life here.  We took a little late evening stroll in Gambetta which at 10:30 P.M. was still filled with delighted children playing in the fountain. 

First Carcassonne breakfast

Yesterday, in search of air conditioning, we went to the movies.  I had heard marvelous things about the movie Dans le Foret de Siberie (In the Forest of Siberia).  It was the perfect movie for Betty--very little dialogue, French subtitles for the Russian conversations, some English.  It was so well acted and filmed that while a non-French speaker might miss some of the subtleties, she understood and appreciated what was unfolding on the screen.  It is a film worth seeing and I hope it comes to the US.  Don't miss it.  Our search for air conditioning, however was in vain. We had to rely on the power of suggestion, looking at all that frozen landscape, to cool down.

After the movie, we stopped in Place Carnot to assess the chances of getting a seat at La Casa, who'd put out extra tables and chairs and had opened up their walls to allow a glimpse of their big screen TV.  It was the final of the Euro Cup soccer match.  France vs Portugal.  We decided that there was too much noise to stay there, so we went around the corner to a little cafe on Place Carnot and had some dinner.  Some friends happened by and joined us for a glass of wine.  The food was okay, the service was the worst I have ever had, ever, anywhere.  But the air was sweet and soft, we were cooled by breezes, the company was warm--the heat seemed to dissipate.  Or at least it was less oppressive. 

The headlines in yesterday's La Depeche read, "Day of Glory."  That turned out not to be the case.

Evening lights from Pont Vieux

I had rubbed a blister  hurrying to make the train to Toulouse, so in a way the present heat wave has been a blessing, forcing me to allow it to heal.  I am well on the road to good walking once again.  Today will be a day for much needed housekeeping chores--laundry, a bus ride to the big store for paper products.  Maybe I will finally get the floors washed, with Betty here to motivate me.  

The heat wave is scheduled to depart today.  Happily, my house guest stays!

Limoux Afternoon

I never, never tire of this view

I took a little afternoon jaunt to Limoux with my friend Shelley and her guest from the US, Julia.  It was the first time either had the pleasure of the 1 Euro train--what a treasure we have in that regional transport.  

Julia and Shelley

Handsome guy looking for lunch in the Aude

We got a rather late start, but got there in time for the end of lunch service.  It was a bit cooler in Limoux than it was when we left Carcassonne, where it had been spitting rain (warm) all morning.  I had had my own encounter with my bank, trying to get my new account card to work.  Let's just say that the machine keeps your card if it thinks you are too dense to get the PIN right after the third try.  So an afternoon in Limoux was much preferable to more negotiations with the bank.  

Shelley and her new friend (between the chairs)

Pots of petunias high off the ground

Flower pots on the lampposts on the old bridge

We were surprised by a field of sunflowers just this side of the Flassian station.  I was on the wrong side of the train going, but managed to get a seat coming back which could give me a chance at a photo.  I have never before seen an entire field of sunflowers, all their heads aligned toward the sun.  The French word for sunflower is "tournesol" --turn to the sun. 

Field of sunflowers

Lunch was outside, of course, and with dogs, of course, and delicious, of course.  We all had salads, light but satisfying.  I am managing to decline the bread, and the dessert.  Maybe some of the habits of French women are starting to rub off on me.  

My favorite house in Limoux

Afterward, we visited the wine store that sells Shelley's favorite Cremant de Limoux and she came away with several bottles.  Then we set off for Saint Martin's church (closed)  and the Piano Museum.  I have tried on about 8 occasions to get in to see this exhibit and on every visit, the place has been closed.  I am batting a thousand, because, guess what?? They are closed on Tuesdays.  So, we set off on a little exploration of the town. Just up the street from the eternally locked Piano Museum, we chanced upon the Church of the Assumption.  In all the visits to Limoux, I have never even seen this church, much less entered it.  It was open and we climbed up and went in.

Center dome's stained glass

Charming painting in the Church of the Assumption

Interesting red Neo-Romanesque ceiling

What a lovely church!  Light-filled.  The sacristan was there and very graciously answered my questions and explained the very unusual ceiling.  He was charming and justifiably, very proud of his building.  Julia was able to explain a little about the placement of such things as the confessional and the baptismal font, which are placed differently in most Catholic churches.  

A very purple truck and a very big bottle

We meandered through the back streets of Limoux, crossing the new bridge, gazing into the Aude, enjoying hundreds of flowers, peering into shop windows.  I took her to Merilee's shop/atelier where Shelley got some ideas for an art project to decorate the walls of her new house here in Carcassonne.  I promised that if she wanted to come to Merilee's Tuesday Crafternoons, I would come with her, although my artistic ability leans more toward slinging and slopping paint all over myself as opposed to producing anything I would hang on my own wall!

Pierrot topiary

We encountered some interesting sights as we worked our way back to the train station:  a purple car with an oversized wine bottle in the back; a topiary shaped like a Pierrot, in honor of Limoux's longest-running and oldest Carnaval; my "hanging" tree leafed out and looking almost normal.  

I had a lovely afternoon, enjoying new friends, good food, interesting sights and I actually got some photographs I didn't need to delete immediately.  I did manage to get a frantic snapshot of the field of sunflowers on the way home.  For a while, I was able to forget about the issues with the bank card, the mountain of chores waiting for me at home, the un-written blog, the un-run errands, the un-practiced piano.  A good day!

"Dead" tree is leafed out