Le Tour de France

Freebie hat

Waiting for the caravan in yellow freebie hats

Bicycling is a huge sport in France, and the crowning glory of the pastime  is the Tour de Franec.  The route varies year after year, with the exception of the last leg--it's always an entry into Paris.  This is the second time since I moved here that one leg of it has been hosted by Carcassonne.  In 2016, the racers were here for  one day--this year they were here for a full three.

The leader and winner of this leg comes into view

I saw the departure in 2016; this year I got to see both the arrival and the departure.  Arrivals are certainly more exciting and much, much faster.  The racers are, after all, trying to beat the clock and one another.  This year's finish was particularly close, with the top three riders engaged in quite a battle for the lead.  I have given up trying to get photos of the riders---I don't have a good or fast enough camera and they are gone in a matter of seconds.  There are far better photographers than I to whose work I will just post links.  The arrival into town, coming over the Black Mountains was widely attended--it was on a late Sunday afternoon, so people had the day off and could show up to clap and cheer.

Fan zone

The first yellow school bus I have seen in 3 years

Course for the youngsters

I think that because people come from so far away to see the race and it is over in the blink of an eye, the host cities must devise some other diversions to fill the time and make people feel like they have traveled all that distance for SOMETHING. This year Carcassonne had several venues with booths, activities, free merchandise, participation opportunities.  I think any tourist in town for the Tour would have felt like there was something to do, to see, to learn.  I went to most of them.

Yellow "jersey" on the Portail des Jacobins

The city set up a Fan Zone at one end of the Bastide, across from the Portail de Jacobins.  There were bike courses for all ages, as well as a BMX course for the more adventurous.  There was a display about the history of the Tour.  I couldn't help but think of Lance Armstrong---what a shame all that scandal was.  No mention of him anywhere, and he was such a strong presence for several years running.  They had booths set up selling official team jerseys and official Tour de France merchandise.  There was nothing for the two little tykes in my family, so they will have to wait until the next time for either a yellow jersey or the polka dotted one.

Artists at work Place Carnot

Proud of our Occitanie region

I stopped in at Place Carnot, where the city had numerous booths selling and giving away samples of local products--wine, truffles, ice cream.  fortunately, I do not like the locally produced ice cream--it's much too sweet for me, so I wasn't tempted by the free samples.  I had a lovely conversation with one of the truffle grower/gatherers.  The mayor was there, trying his hand (his legs?) at the bicycle powered blender.  I bought a few gifts for my friends and family who couldn't be here.

Product of our region

I wonder----what do the riders do on their rest day?  Sleep late?  Eat lots of pasta?  I didn't see any skinny bicycle-types while out and about, so maybe they are just lounging around thinking about the hundreds of miles yet to go.

yellow jerseys everywhere

one of the caravan characters

Part of this morning''s parade

One of the attractions provided by the Tour is the Caravan--the parade of floats and decorated cars that most of the sponsors enter to let people know who is footing the bill for most of this spectacle.  It's never as simple as a couple of people just having a bike race, is it?  They come along the side of the streets, throwing all manner of doo-dads to the spectators.  The biggest sponsors are Carrefour, the national grocery store chain and Vittel, the sellers of bottled water.  They had a specially designed float that came along and sprayed the crowd with water, especially appreciated on the entry, when it was so hot.  I didn't get very good photos of the entry caravan, but because the crowds were sparse this morning for the departure, I did get a couple of nice photos to share.  And I even got pelted with some loot, all of which I have sent back to Andrew and Lauren in the States....I do not need a tire tread gauge, as I have no car!  

Gendarme keeps an eye out

I got one of their blue hats

Cookies

After the departure caravan, I walked up to the Bearnaise village---a collection of tables and booths showcasing the Bearn region of the Pyrenees.  I bought some of their local products and they, too are en route to the States.  Red saffron is one local specialty, and the first Bourbon King of France was from Pau, the largest town in the region.  The region is also Basque country and on my list of places to learn about and spend some time. I picked up lots of maps and literature.

 

Win a house

I love these old Citroens!

Back to Boulevard Jean-Jaures for the official departure of the riders at 11:30.  I gave up trying to get photos--I could NOT get away from this one woman who constantly stepped in front of me.  The departure is controlled--the riders are all bunched together as one huge group, which will change as soon as they get out of town and onto open road.  But it is impressive to see all those colors and helmets and realize just how quiet they are.  I waved, shouted good-bye and wished them all a good ride at the top of my lungs.  I don't know what was going through their minds, but I know at least one rider heard me, because he acknowledged me. 

All manner of "floats"

Riding uphill

French fry dress

The US had three teams to start with, but I don't know for sure if any of them are still in the running.  There were only three US riders in the entire 176 person race, and there was at least one US team that had not one single US citizen on it.  It reminded me of the World Cup.  

Vittel is a huge sponsor

I have no dog in this particular fight. I want the best guy to win.  I want them not to be doping.  I want them to not make it come down to who's got the best equipment.  I want them to just have a bike race.   

Food truck in Bearnaise village

Table linens from Bearn

Bearnaise goodies

Shady, nearly deserted Chenier this morning

Merci, Les Bleus!

Firewords like a comet

Yesterday France faced Croatia in the final match of the 2018 World Cup--you know, the one Germany was supposed to win.  The entire country, my city, my neighborhood,  actually much of the entire world was settled in to watch the battle.  I was among them, as were friends and family on both sides of the globe.  There's something really amazing to me about the connected-ness of this act.  In real time we were cheering, all seeing the same thing at the same time.  Thus we see the power and reach of both soccer and technology.

I confess to not caring a whole lot for sports--I like a good baseball game on a warm summer's evening, and I like an occasional ACC college basketball game.  But during World Cup, I watch as many of the matches as I can, and especially those in which France is competing.  I think it's really amusing that I quickly learn the players's names and positions.  This first happened back in 2006, when I was in Paris with some friends from Brookings and we got all wrapped up in the French team who made it to the finals of that World Cup. (Versus Italy) Remember Zidane and the famous head butt?

Liberte, Egalite, Fraternite

So this year I got to know Griezmann and Mbappe and Lloris (my personal nominee for MVP of the series with all the amazing saves he made over the course of the matches).  I still don't understand all the rules, especially where fouls are concerned, but I did learn there are few things worse than touching the ball with your hands.  Pushing, shoving, grabbing an opponent's jersey are all okay, but no tripping.  It also seemed as if players spent an awful lot of time rolling around on the ground; maybe they were really in pain or maybe they simply needed a breather.  Soccer is a lot more physical contact than I had ever imagined.

I like these with the glittery finish!

Here are a few things I saw and learned.  1.)The South American teams are more aggressive than most of the Europeans.  They play rougher.  Germany was eliminated rather early, stunned by a loss to Mexico.  2.) Although tempers can and do flare, most players help one another up off the ground and seem to regard a match well played as something to celebrate, even for the loser.  3.) People, including the French announcers I listened to (although they tried to hide their bias) didn't seem to much like England and nobody, except the Brits, seemed sorry to see them eliminated.  4.)  Even though scores don't typically run high, the game is nerve-wrackingly exciting.  Sometimes I just had to look away.  I suppose that makes me a terrible fan. 5.) Croatian fans were wearing outfits that resembled red and white checked tablecloths.

After some of the matches, there were some shameful incidents.  The one of British fans trashing an Ikea store after England BEAT Sweden seems particularly egregious.  France was little better, after its win over Blegium, when there was some looting in Paris.  I don't understand how exuberance crosses the line to damage.  

Festive sight

Nobody expected anything of Croatia, so to have them in the finals made my sympathies torn.  I love an underdog, and they definitely were that.  I am happy France won, for the team's sake, but I would have felt okay with a Croatian win.  Besides, I learned that Croatia has a woman President and that impresses me.  

The presentation of the trophies was an interesting event.  Vladimir Putin was there.  I suppose he had to be, since the games were held in \Russia, after all.  But what a thug.  It started raining during the presentation of medals, and raining hard.  Putin was quickly given an umbrella and someone to hold it.  Meanwhile all the other dignitaries, French President Macron and the FIFA officials and the President of Croatia, the teams, the referees, the "stewardesses" holding the medals,  braved the rain and got soaked. 

After the presentation of the medals and hugs to both teams from both country's presidents, the dignitaries left the stage to the winning team and the press.  There was childlike cavorting, slipping and sliding on the sopping ground.  But what touched me the most was that each player was able to bring his children and have photos taken with the trophy.  No wonder French children love soccer; they are introduced to it at a very young age.  

I like soccer because it's an equalizer.  You don't have to have fancy equipment or expensive gear.  All you need is a ball.  And determination.  The teams I saw, especially the South American ones, as well as Croatia, had that in spades.  

This one has a beating heart

France's daily newspaper Le Monde had a cartoon of Mbpappe, who is only 19 years old.  Basically it said, "He;s 19 and is playing in a World Cup final.  What were YOU doing when you were 19?"

I don't feel like I won anything....I don't understand that transference.  The team deserves the congratulations.  They are flying back from Moscow today and will be greeted in the Elysee Palace by President and Madame Macron.  And everywhere today there are signs--Merci, les Bleus.  Thank you, Blues for a wonderful experience!  

And next up?  The Tour de France rolls into town for three days at the end of the week!

Toulouse Concert

Large screen shows crowd down in the official area

My old neighbor Susan, from #34 Pont Vieux is spending the summer months in Toulouse because the cottage she rents in Carcassonne can make more money for its owners by being a weekly vacation rental in  high season.  So, she needed to find new living quarters for three months.  Jason, the guy who owns #34 also has a place in Toulouse; it was being vacated by the students who rented it during the university year, and he offered it to Susan.  A good deal for all parties, I think.

She let me know that there was going to be a concert by the Toulouse Orchestra in a lovely outdoor venue on Monday night, July 9. On the program were works by Bernstein, Brahms, Ducas, and Bizet.  She asked if I would like to go--it was free--and I accepted. I wanted to hear this orchestra--they have a good reputation. 

Everyone is standing

I took the train, which is certainly easier--and cheaper--for me than driving to Toulouse.  Susan met me at the station and we stopped at one of the thousand or more restaurants in the Pink City for lunch.  I like to order the chef's special of the day whenever I can (i.e., when it's not fish!) and did so again....what a lovely meal.  I had an entree of cool gazpacho, a lovely green cucumber based soup and for my main course I had gigolette de volaille, which was poultry (probably turkey?) that was compressed tightly into rounds sitting atop a piece of crispy polenta and all of that atop a bed of broccoli mousse.  Delicious!  And filling.  Sorry, but I didn't take photos---I really don't like to do that any more.

The stage

We were seated next to a couple from the Netherlands who are currently working in Brussels.  They are in town for the convention that is taking place in conjunction with Toulouse being named a City of Science--the first city in France to be so honored.  That's what the concert was celebrating as well--and at some point they asked if there were any Cities of Science in Canada (that's where Susan is from)....I had to pipe up and say that the United States currently no longer believes in science, much to my chagrin and embarrassment.  The man gently corrected me and said, "The administration of the United States no longer believes in science."  He is on the steering committee for Leyden's own recognition festival in 2020 (I think that is the correct upcoming year) and wanted to get an idea of what worked, and what didn't during this convention.  I will say that right now, Toulouse is the happening city in France--home to its aerospace industry and much of France\s scientific research. 

After lunch we went on to the apartment where we got a little bit caught up, had a little respite from the heat.  Then it was off to explore the neighborhood a bit--I managed to find a piece of cheesecake, something I haven't had in years and years.  Further meals after that were out of the question for me.

Couldn't see, but we could hear perfectly

At about 7:30 we left for the park, which is right along the Garronne River.   I had brought along my folding camp chair--sorry, but my days of sitting on the ground are mostly behind me, I think.  There was no seating at this venue--actually there is no seating at most venues.  The crowd stands....which is one of the reasons why I don't attend.  It's one thing to stand for two hours if you're 20 and you are moving around to rock and roll music.  It's quite another to stand for an hour and a half of classical music.  

It seems that one is not allowed to take a picnic nor a seat into the venue--nor anything made of glass.  Fine--we ended up along the fence line with all the other people who'd brought chairs and/or picnics.  I am always amazed to see French people simply sit down in the dirt, the parking lot, on cement, on asphalt and have a picnic....and this evening was no exception.  We did get there early enough to get right next to the fence and even though our line of sight was compromised, it had absolutely no effect on the sound.  In fact, the sound was quite good.  And I am used to going to concerts in halls where the object is not to see, but to hear.  So I didn't care one iota about not being down center with those other 2500 people, crammed together in the heat, standing....not my idea of any way to enjoy a classical music concert.  

Our seats were far from perfect--but that was the fault of the family behind us, who came to picnic and talk through the entire concert and to allow their bratty awful kids to come up and shake and pull on the fencing--in other words, to completely abdicate any parental responsibility during the evening.  I confess to scaring the one little kid--I did it and I did it on purpose. And I did it with that LOOK!   But he stopped his annoying behavior.  Finally, after being glared at enough by the rest of us, that ignorant family packed their belongings and left.  The concert became much more enjoyable after that.

I realize how much I have missed these summer evening concerts...and live classical music.  There's not a lot of it here in Carcassonne.  I don't thing we have a municipal orchestra---we do have a band, I think.  And there are some visiting orchestras that come to the Theater Jean Alary, but that's during the season and it's indoors.  I miss that sort of Tanglewood experience.  The outdoor amphitheater in the Cite has seating and good acoustics, but during the month of July it's reserved for aging rock and roll acts.  Or current acts whose tickets are out of my price range.  

The concert program was eclectic to say the least:  The Sorcerer's Apprentice, and two Bernstein pieces---the Overture to Candide and the West Side Story Medley.  There was a bit of Carmen, by Bizet and Brahms' Hungarian Rhapsody.  I was trying to find a link between the programming and science, but failed to do so.  Maybe it was just what the guest conductor wanted to present.  

I have never heard the Dukas played better.  I was impressed with the sound and dynamic range of the orchestra and would like very much to hear them again.  

Bridge over the Garonne--and concert goers walking home

The walk home was easy--not being inside the gates meant that there was no crush or wait to get out, and we wended our way across the bridge, stopping for photos.  The Capitole square was hopping with customers--it was 11:00 P.M. by now and the bistros, cafes and the ice cream stands were all doing a brisk business.  That is a significant difference between 'Toulouse and Carcassonne--the streets here are deserted and quiet after 9 P.M.  We remain sleepy little Carcassonne.  But isn't it lovely that there are places like "Toulouse close by to visit? 

 I have included below the link to the concert should anyone be interested.

 https://france3-regions.francetvinfo.fr/occitanie/haute-garonne/toulouse/toulouse-vivez-direct-grand-concert-orchestre-du-capitole-lundi-9-juillet-1507093.html

Week of True Summer

 

 

Summer sunset

Same sunset a little later

It's hard to believe the 4th of July has come and gone--it's such a strong summer celebration memory for me.  The rest of the season seemed to always speed by after that evening picnic of hot dogs, watermelon and sparklers.  Here in France July 4th is just another day, but during this week of weather reminiscent of mid-Atlantic July 4rh heat, I celebrated the American holiday with a picnic, another American, a Brit and and |Irishman.  

Wine, aperos and Martin plays

 We packed a picnic and hauled it to the banks of the River Aude on Wednesday in the late afternoon.  I made oven fried chicken, potato salad, cole slaw, deviled eggs, black-bottom cupcakes and I had some watermelon slices--all those elements I remembered from childhood Independence Day celebrations.  Debbie, a fellow Southerner, brought chips and dip and sparklers!!!  David brought some tuna stiffed tomatoes...he's British, what does he know of American appetizers?  

Debbie, provider of sparklers

David is forced to celebrate losing his Colonies

The river was almost unrecognizable from a distance--it looked like solid mud.  The day before we had "enjoyed" heat and humidity much like that I remembered from mid-Atlantic summers, culminating in aviolent early-evening thunderstorm. We didn't get hail in Carcassonne itself, but the surrounding area got pelted, and severely so.  Growers are worried about damage to the vines and crops.  That upstream deluge must have been what turned the Aude into a torrent of brown water.  

Martin brought his guitar, we sand old-timey songs--This Land is Your Land, (even the non-American's knew the words to the chorus), had a great picnic, drank lots--and I do mean lots--of wine, white and rose, lit our sparklers and sang You're a Grand Old Flag.  It was cooler by the river, for sure, but the wind was fierce--blew some food off the table at one point. 

Looking south on the pedestrian street

Some are blowing in the wind

Rumbles in the west and threatening clouds sent us off for shelter at a furious pace--I had a mile to walk home--and the storm was coming fast.  I hauled myself and my old-lady cart holding all the leftovers home at a fast clip and made it inside my building and up the two flights of stairs with about 1 minute to spare before the heavens really opened up.  It was good exercise, but wow, did we cut it close!

The wind was brisk

ace Carnot and its umbrellas

That storm broke the little heat/humidity wave that we were "enjoying," and we had a few days of breezy low-to mid-80's- no-humidity-perfect summer weather.  But the heat is back, with temperatures expected in the low to mid and then upper 90's forecast for this week.  One way to cope with the heat is to take myself out in the evening, usually around 9:00 P..M., while it's still light.  It' usually begins to cool off by then and there are lots of opportunities for twilight photographs.  

Twilight photo of re=done Chenier fountain

Same colors as the umbrellas

Early casualties of the wind

The city has taken some measures to help protect the pedestrians here in the Bastide against the strong summer sun.  They've joined in the world-wide circle of cities participating in the Umbrella Sky Project.  Hundreds of umbrellas, opened, have been suspended over the main pedestrian street in the Bastide to help provide some shade for those passing beneath.  They also provide color and smiles...the tourists love them and the pedestrian street was, to borrow a phrase from one of my British friends--heaving--yesterday.  Not only is it sale season, which brings out the locals, but this installation has maybe lured some of the tourists who normally see only the walled City up on the hill down to the Bastide to shop and have some refreshments.  (And clog up the walkway, impeding those of us who are just trying to get our daily errands run--my thoughts in my rare moments of impatience)

My spot for a cool beverage on a summer's evening

And who knows, in addition to all the shelter they provide from the sun, by acting as parasols....maybe they will provide a little protection from summer showers--they are, after all, parapluies.

One way to cope with the heat

And here's another